How To Make Pull Out Shelves For Kitchen Cabinets Guide

Making pull out shelves for your kitchen cabinets is a great weekend project. It helps you reach things easily. You can make your own shelves. This saves money. It lets you make shelves that fit just right. This guide shows you how to build simple, strong sliding shelves. These are often called DIY pull out shelves kitchen cabinets. They make finding things in deep cabinets much easier. This is a simple way to improve your kitchen cabinet organization DIY. Building roll out shelves changes how you use your space.

How To Make Pull Out Shelves For Kitchen Cabinets
Image Source: www.thenavagepatch.com

Why Make Your Own Sliding Shelves?

Kitchen cabinets can be deep. Stuff gets lost in the back. Reaching things can be hard. Pull out shelves fix this problem. They bring the back of the cabinet out to you.

Buying ready-made pull out shelves can cost a lot. They also might not fit your cabinets perfectly. Cabinets are different sizes. Hinges can get in the way. Making your own lets you build custom kitchen cabinet shelves DIY. You measure your space. You build shelves that fit. This makes the best use of the space you have. It can save you money too.

Making these shelves is not too hard. You need some basic tools. You need some wood and hardware. It is a good project for someone who likes to build things. Sliding shelves for kitchen cabinets make your kitchen work better.

Planning Your Project: Getting Started

Good planning makes building easier. You need to know what you will build. You need to know what you need. This part is very important.

How to Measure for Pull Out Shelves

Getting the right size is key. You need to measure the space inside the cabinet. Open the cabinet door wide. Look inside.

First, measure the width. Measure from one side wall to the other side wall. Do this at the front and the back. Cabinet walls might not be perfectly straight. Use the smallest number you get.

Next, measure the depth. Measure from the front edge of the cabinet box to the back wall. Do not measure to the door. Measure the inside box depth. This is how far back the shelf can go.

Then, measure the height. If you are adding a shelf to an empty space, measure from the cabinet floor to the top of the opening. If you are adding a shelf below an existing shelf, measure from the shelf below to the shelf above. You need enough space for the shelf box and the slides.

Watch out for hinges. Cabinet door hinges can stick out. They can block the shelf. Measure how much space the hinges take up. You need to build the shelf narrow enough to clear the hinges when the door is closed. This is very important for how wide the shelf can be.

Let’s write down the steps for measuring:
* Open the cabinet door all the way.
* Measure the width inside the cabinet. Measure near the front. Measure near the back. Use the smaller number. This is your inside width.
* Measure the depth inside the cabinet box. Measure from the front edge inside to the back wall. This is your inside depth.
* Measure the height where the shelf will go. Measure from bottom to top. This is your inside height.
* Check for hinges or other things sticking out. Note where they are. Measure how much space they take up.

Here is an example of how to record measurements:

Measurement Location Result (Inches) Notes
Inside Width Front 22.5
Inside Width Back 22.25 Use 22.25
Inside Depth Floor to Back Wall 21.75
Inside Height Space for Shelf 9.0
Hinge Obstruction Left Hinge Takes 0.75″ Shelf must clear this space
Hinge Obstruction Right Hinge Takes 0.75″ Shelf must clear this space

From this example, the inside width is 22.25 inches. The hinges take up 0.75 inches on each side. So, the shelf box must be at least 0.75 inches narrower than the inside width on each side. Total width needed for the shelf box: 22.25 – 0.75 – 0.75 = 20.75 inches. Wait, this assumes the slides go on the side of the shelf. Most slides mount under the shelf box or on the side of the box AND the cabinet wall.

Let’s rethink the width for the shelf box based on slides. Drawer slides come in pairs. One piece attaches to the shelf. The other piece attaches inside the cabinet. The slides themselves take up space. Most standard slides take about 0.5 inches on each side. This means the shelf box must be about 1 inch narrower than the inside width of the cabinet.

So, going back to the example: Inside width is 22.25 inches. Slides need 1 inch total space (0.5 on left, 0.5 on right). Shelf box width should be 22.25 – 1 = 21.25 inches.

Now, consider the hinges again. The shelf box itself is 21.25 inches wide. The hinges stick out 0.75 inches on each side. If the shelf box is 21.25 inches wide, does it hit the hinges? Yes, it will if the cabinet opening is only 22.25 inches wide.

This means you need to figure out the usable width. This is the space left after you account for hinges. Measure the space between the hinges. Or, measure the full width (22.25 in example) and subtract the space the hinges take up. If the hinges stick out 0.75 inches on each side into the usable space, then the usable width is 22.25 – 0.75 – 0.75 = 20.75 inches.

Your shelf box must fit within this usable width. So, the shelf box width should be the usable width minus the space needed for the slides (about 1 inch). Example: 20.75 inches (usable width) – 1 inch (slides) = 19.75 inches. This is the width for your shelf box.

What about depth? The slides need space behind the shelf box when it is closed. Most slides need about 1 inch of space at the back. So, the shelf box depth should be the inside depth minus 1 inch. Example: 21.75 inches (inside depth) – 1 inch (slides) = 20.75 inches. This is the depth for your shelf box.

What about height? The shelf box needs to fit under the shelf above (or cabinet top). Slides add some height. Standard slides might add about 0.5 inches below the shelf box. So, the total height needed is the shelf box height plus the slide height. If you want a 3-inch tall shelf box, you need 3 + 0.5 = 3.5 inches of clear height. Make sure this fits in your measured inside height (9.0 inches in example). Yes, 3.5 inches fits inside 9.0 inches. You can even stack shelves.

So, for our example:
* Shelf box width: 19.75 inches
* Shelf box depth: 20.75 inches
* Shelf box height: Choose based on what you will store (often 3 or 4 inches is good). Let’s say 4 inches.

These numbers are the outside measurements of the shelf box you will build.

Choosing Materials: Wood and Slides

You need wood to build the shelf boxes. Plywood is a good choice. It is strong and flat. It resists changes in shape. Good types are cabinet-grade plywood or birch plywood.

What thickness of wood?
* For the shelf bottom: 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick plywood works well. 1/2 inch is fine for lighter loads. 3/4 inch is better for heavier items like pots and pans.
* For the shelf sides: 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick plywood is good. You need sides to keep things in the box.
* If you use 3/4 inch sides and a 1/2 inch bottom, the bottom fits inside the sides.

Wood for cabinet shelves should be smooth and strong. Avoid cheap plywood that splinters easily.

You also need slides. These are the hardware pieces that let the shelf pull out. These are called cabinet drawer slides installation parts or install cabinet shelf glides.
Types of slides:
* Epoxy Slides: These have plastic wheels. They are usually white. They are simple and cost less. They do not pull out all the way. They are okay for light to medium weight.
* Ball-Bearing Slides: These use small metal balls. They slide very smoothly. They can hold more weight. They pull out almost all the way (full extension). This lets you reach everything easily. These are often better for kitchen use because you can put heavy things on them. They cost more than epoxy slides.

Choose slides that are rated for the weight you expect. Kitchen shelves can hold heavy items. Ball-bearing slides rated for 75 lbs or 100 lbs are a good choice.

Choose slides based on the shelf depth you measured. Slides come in standard lengths (like 18 inch, 20 inch, 22 inch). Pick slides that are slightly shorter than your shelf box depth. This makes sure the slide is hidden under the shelf. If your shelf box depth is 20.75 inches, 20-inch slides are a good fit.

You will need two slides for each shelf. One for the left side, one for the right side.

You will also need screws to attach the slides. The slide package usually says what size screws are needed. You will also need wood glue and screws or nails to build the shelf box itself.

Designing the Shelf Box

The shelf box is like a simple tray or shallow drawer. It has a bottom piece. It has four side pieces. The height of the sides depends on what you will store. 3 or 4 inches is common. For tall bottles, you might want 6 inches.

You will cut the pieces of wood to size.
Let’s use our example shelf box size: 19.75 inches wide, 20.75 inches deep, 4 inches high (outside measurements). Assume you use 1/2 inch thick plywood for the bottom and 3/4 inch thick plywood for the sides.

How to cut the pieces:
* Bottom: This piece will be 19.75 inches wide and 20.75 inches deep minus the thickness of the front and back pieces if the bottom fits between them. Or, the sides can fit around the bottom. Let’s make it simple: the sides sit on top of the bottom piece (like a tray).
* Bottom piece size: 19.75 inches wide x 20.75 inches deep.
* Sides (Left and Right): These go along the 20.75 inch depth. They will be 20.75 inches long and 4 inches high. You need two of these.
* Side pieces size: 20.75 inches long x 4 inches high. (You need 2).
* Front and Back: These go along the 19.75 inch width. If they fit between the sides, their length will be 19.75 inches minus the thickness of the two side pieces. Using 3/4 inch sides: 19.75 – 0.75 – 0.75 = 18.25 inches. Their height will be 4 inches. You need two of these.
* Front/Back pieces size: 18.25 inches long x 4 inches high. (You need 2).

So, for one shelf, you need to cut:
* 1 piece of 1/2″ plywood: 19.75 inches x 20.75 inches (Bottom)
* 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood: 20.75 inches x 4 inches (Sides)
* 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood: 18.25 inches x 4 inches (Front/Back)

This is just one way to join the pieces. You could also have the front and back pieces overlap the sides. Pick a simple way to make a strong box.

This process of figuring out piece sizes is part of making pull out drawers for cabinets or sliding shelves for kitchen cabinets.

Gathering Tools and Materials

Before you start cutting, get everything ready.

Tools You Will Need:

  • Measuring tape (metal tape is best)
  • Safety glasses (always wear these when cutting or drilling)
  • Pencil
  • Circular saw or table saw (to cut the wood pieces)
  • Drill and drill bits (for making holes for screws)
  • Screwdriver bits for your drill or a hand screwdriver
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps (handy for holding pieces while glue dries or drilling)
  • Sandpaper or sander
  • Level
  • Countersink drill bit (optional, helps screw heads sit flush)
  • Stud finder (useful if mounting slides to cabinet sides, though cabinets are usually solid wood or plywood)
  • Speed square or combination square (for marking straight lines)

Materials You Will Need:

  • Plywood (1/2″ for bottom, 3/4″ for sides – check your design)
  • Drawer slides (ball-bearing, full extension, rated for enough weight, correct length) – 1 pair per shelf
  • Wood screws (different sizes):
    • For building the box: Screws long enough to go through the side piece and into the edge of the bottom piece or joining pieces (e.g., 1.5 inch screws).
    • For mounting the slides: Screws that came with the slides, or similar small screws that won’t go through the cabinet side wall (e.g., 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch pan head screws).
  • Wood filler (if you need to fill screw holes or gaps)
  • Paint or stain and a clear coat (polyurethane) for finishing the wood
  • Small blocks of wood or scrap plywood (for mounting slides, especially in face frame cabinets)

Building the Shelf Box

Now you build the actual shelf that will slide out. This is part of Building roll out shelves.

Step 1: Cutting the Wood Pieces

Take your measurements and cutting list. Mark the cut lines on your plywood using a pencil and a square. Make sure your lines are straight.

Put on your safety glasses. Use your saw to cut the pieces. Cut carefully along your lines. Take your time.

You should have one bottom piece, two side pieces, and two front/back pieces cut to your exact sizes.

Step 2: Assembling the Box

Lay the bottom piece flat. Put wood glue along the bottom edge of one side piece. Place this side piece onto the edge of the bottom piece. The edge of the bottom piece should line up with the inside face of the side piece. Or, if your design has the sides sitting on top of the bottom, put glue on the bottom edge of the side piece and place it on top of the bottom piece edge. Let’s stick with the simple tray design where sides sit on the bottom.

Put glue on the bottom edge of the other side piece. Place it on the opposite edge of the bottom piece.

Put glue on the bottom edge of the front piece. Place it on the front edge of the bottom piece, between the two side pieces.

Put glue on the bottom edge of the back piece. Place it on the back edge of the bottom piece, between the two side pieces.

Now you have the five pieces sitting on the bottom piece with glue. Use clamps to hold the pieces together tightly.

Drill pilot holes for your screws. A pilot hole is a small hole drilled before the screw goes in. It stops the wood from splitting. Drill holes through the side pieces and into the edge of the bottom piece, about every 6-8 inches. Do the same for the front and back pieces. If you have a countersink bit, use it to make the top of the hole wider so the screw head goes in flush.

Drive screws through the pilot holes to connect the sides, front, and back to the bottom piece. Use screws that are long enough to go into the bottom piece but not poke through the other side.

You can also add glue to the ends of the front/back pieces where they meet the side pieces for extra strength. Drill pilot holes and drive screws through the sides into the ends of the front/back pieces.

Wipe away any extra glue that squeezes out.

Let the glue dry fully. Check the glue bottle for drying time.

Step 3: Finishing the Shelf Box

Once the glue is dry, remove the clamps. The box should feel strong.

Sand the entire shelf box. Start with medium grit sandpaper (like 120). Then use fine grit (like 220). Sand all surfaces and edges. Make them smooth. This makes the finish look better and prevents splinters.

Wipe off all the dust with a damp cloth. Let it dry.

Now you can paint or stain the shelf. Choose a color that matches your cabinets or complements your kitchen. Apply one or two coats of paint or stain. Let it dry according to the product directions.

After painting or staining, apply a protective clear coat like polyurethane. This protects the wood from spills and wear. Apply thin coats. Sand lightly with very fine sandpaper (like 320 grit) between coats. Wipe off dust. Apply a second coat. Two or three coats give good protection. Let the finish dry completely before moving on.

Installing the Slides

This is the part where you attach the sliding hardware. This is called cabinet drawer slides installation or install cabinet shelf glides.

Drawer slides come in two main parts: the cabinet member (the part that stays in the cabinet) and the drawer member (the part that attaches to the shelf box). Ball-bearing slides also have a middle piece that connects the two. You usually separate these pieces before installing. Look for a lever or button on the slide to separate them.

Step 1: Attaching Slides to the Shelf Box

Get your shelf box. Take the two drawer members (the parts that attach to the shelf). Place one on the bottom edge of each side of the shelf box. Line them up with the bottom edge. The front end of the slide should be flush (even) with the front of the shelf box.

Use a pencil to mark the screw holes.

Use small screws (often included with the slides) to attach the slides to the shelf box. Drill pilot holes if needed for very small screws, but often these screws are small enough not to require them in plywood. Drive the screws firmly, but do not overtighten. Make sure the slides are straight along the bottom edge of the shelf sides.

Step 2: Attaching Slides Inside the Cabinet

This step needs careful measurement and leveling. The slides inside the cabinet must be straight and parallel to each other. If they are not, the shelf will not slide smoothly.

The cabinet members (the parts that stay in the cabinet) need to be attached to the inside walls of the cabinet.

For frameless cabinets: These cabinets have flat side walls from front to back. You can often attach the cabinet member of the slide directly to the side wall.
* Decide how high you want the shelf. Measure up from the cabinet floor to the desired height. Make a mark on the cabinet side wall.
* Hold the cabinet member of the slide against the side wall at that height. Use a level to make sure it is straight from front to back. The front end of the slide should be even with the inside front edge of the cabinet box.
* Mark the screw holes.
* Drill small pilot holes.
* Attach the slide using the recommended screws. Make sure the screws do not go all the way through the cabinet side wall.
* Repeat for the slide on the other side of the cabinet. Make sure the height is exactly the same on both sides. Measure from the floor up to the bottom edge of the slide on both sides. They must match.

For face frame cabinets: These cabinets have a frame of solid wood around the opening. The cabinet sides are set back from the frame. You cannot attach the slide directly to the side wall at the front. You need a mounting strip or block.
* Cut pieces of wood to act as mounting blocks. These blocks will attach to the side walls. The slide will attach to these blocks.
* The blocks need to be thick enough to bring the slide forward, past the face frame opening, or at least allow the front of the slide to be flush with the inside face of the face frame. A common way is to use a strip of wood equal to the setback from the back of the face frame to the inside of the cabinet side wall. These blocks also make the inside of the cabinet narrower for the slides. The width you calculated for your shelf box already accounted for this.
* Measure and mark the height for the shelf inside the cabinet.
* Attach the mounting blocks to the cabinet side walls at that height. Use screws from inside the cabinet side wall into the block, or angled screws (toe-screwing) from the block into the cabinet side. Make them solid.
* Now, attach the cabinet members of the slides to the mounting blocks. Line up the front of the slide with the front edge of the mounting block or the inside face of the face frame, depending on your slide type and desired setup. Use a level to keep them straight. Mark and drill pilot holes. Screw the slides to the blocks.
* Repeat for the other side. Make sure the heights match exactly.

Mounting blocks are key for face frame cabinets when doing cabinet drawer slides installation. They provide a flat surface for the slide that is aligned with the cabinet opening.

Step 3: Connecting Shelf to Slides

Once the cabinet members of the slides are securely installed inside the cabinet, it’s time to put the shelf in.

Extend the cabinet members of the slides. You might need to pull the middle piece forward until it clicks.

Hold the shelf box with the drawer members of the slides attached. Line up the front of the drawer members with the front of the extended cabinet members. Gently slide the shelf box onto the cabinet slides. You should feel them engage. Push the shelf in slowly. It should slide smoothly into the cabinet. Pull it out again. Check that it slides easily and stays level.

If it sticks or is hard to push, check your slide installation. Are the slides inside the cabinet parallel? Are they at the exact same height on both sides? Are there any screws sticking out inside the cabinet?

This completes the install cabinet shelf glides process for one shelf.

Adding More Shelves

If you have tall cabinets, you can add more than one pull out shelf. Decide how many shelves you need. Plan their height. Leave enough space between shelves for the items you want to store. Remember to account for the height of the shelf box plus the slide (about 0.5 inches below the box).

Measure and install each shelf one at a time, following the same steps. Make sure you have enough vertical space for the shelf box, the items on it, and clearance to reach over the side of the box.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here are some problems and how to fix them:

  • Shelf won’t slide or is very stiff:
    • Check if the slides are installed parallel to each other inside the cabinet. If one is higher or lower than the other, or if they angle inward or outward, the shelf will bind. You might need to unscrew one slide and adjust its position. Use your level again.
    • Check for screws sticking out inside the cabinet that might be hitting the shelf box or slides.
    • Make sure the shelf box is not hitting the cabinet opening or hinges. Is it too wide? You might need to trim the width slightly if it’s hitting the face frame or cabinet sides.
    • Check if the slides are damaged or bent.
  • Shelf slides unevenly:
    • This usually means the slides are not perfectly level or parallel. Re-check your measurements and slide positions inside the cabinet. Adjust as needed.
  • Shelf hits the door hinges:
    • Your initial measurement for the shelf box width was not narrow enough to clear the hinges. You will need to remove the slides from the shelf box and trim the width of the shelf box. Then reattach the slides.
  • Shelf does not stay closed:
    • Some slides have a “soft close” or “detent” feature that holds them closed. Make sure you bought slides with this feature if you want it. If they have it but don’t stay closed, check installation. Sometimes they need to be installed perfectly level to work right.

Patience is key when troubleshooting. Check each step again.

Benefits of Sliding Shelves

Making your own sliding shelves for kitchen cabinets brings many benefits.
* Easy Access: No more digging around to find things in the back. Pull the shelf out and everything is right there. This is the main goal of kitchen cabinet organization DIY using these shelves.
* Better Use of Space: You can see everything. This helps you use the full depth of the cabinet. Nothing gets forgotten in the back.
* Custom Fit: You build the shelves to fit your exact cabinet size and needs. This is the power of custom kitchen cabinet shelves DIY. You can make them high enough for cereal boxes or shallow for baking sheets.
* Cost Savings: Building roll out shelves yourself is usually much cheaper than buying ready-made units or having them custom made.
* Neatness: Sliding shelves help keep things organized. Items are less likely to get pushed around and jumbled up.

Installing sliding shelves or making pull out drawers for cabinets is a rewarding project. It makes your kitchen much more functional. It takes your kitchen cabinet organization DIY to the next level.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What kind of wood is best for cabinet shelves?

Plywood is a good choice. Use cabinet-grade or birch plywood in 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thickness. It is strong and stable.

How much weight can these shelves hold?

The weight limit mostly depends on the slides you choose. Ball-bearing slides can hold 75 lbs, 100 lbs, or more per pair. Check the weight rating on the slide package. The shelf box itself, if built well with strong joints and wood glue, will usually hold more than the slides can.

What if my cabinet has a face frame?

Face frame cabinets need mounting blocks. These are pieces of wood attached to the cabinet sides to bring the slide mounting surface forward, past the face frame opening. You attach the slides to these blocks. This was covered in the installation steps.

Do I need special slides for heavy pots and pans?

Yes, for heavy items, choose full-extension ball-bearing slides with a high weight rating (like 75 lbs or 100 lbs). Epoxy slides are usually not strong enough for heavy pots.

How high should the sides of the shelf box be?

The height depends on what you plan to store. 3 to 4 inches is common for general items. For tall bottles or boxes, you might want sides that are 6 inches or higher. Remember to check that the items plus the shelf height fit in the space inside the cabinet.

Can I put multiple pull out shelves in one tall cabinet?

Yes. Just plan the height of each shelf. Make sure you have enough space between them for the items you will store on each shelf. Account for the height of the shelf box and the slide hardware underneath it. Measure and install each shelf level carefully.

How do I figure out the exact width of the shelf box?

Measure the inside width of the cabinet opening. Account for hinges or anything else sticking out to find the usable width. Subtract about 1 inch from the usable width. This 1 inch gives space for the two slides (about 1/2 inch each). This is the outside width of your shelf box.

What length slides should I buy?

Buy slides that are slightly shorter than the inside depth of your cabinet (from the front edge of the cabinet box to the back wall), minus about 1 inch. So, if your inside depth is 22 inches, 20-inch slides are a good choice. They should also be slightly shorter than your shelf box depth so they don’t stick out when the shelf is pulled out.

Making Your Kitchen Work Better

You now have the steps to build and install your own custom pull out shelves. This project gives you custom kitchen cabinet shelves DIY that fit perfectly. It uses LSI keywords like DIY pull out shelves kitchen cabinets and Building roll out shelves to cover the process. You learned How to measure for pull out shelves, what Wood for cabinet shelves works best, how to do Cabinet drawer slides installation and Install cabinet shelf glides, and the steps for Making pull out drawers for cabinets. The result is better sliding shelves for kitchen cabinets and improved Kitchen cabinet organization DIY. Enjoy your more organized and easier-to-use kitchen!

Leave a Comment