Yes, you can paint a Kitchenaid mixer. It is a popular project for people who like to do things themselves. Painting lets you change the color of your mixer to match your kitchen or just give it a fresh look. It takes time and care, but many DIYers finish with great results.
Image Source: reality-daydream.s3.amazonaws.com
Figuring Out If Painting Is Right For You
Giving your Kitchenaid mixer a new color can make it feel brand new. Maybe your mixer is old and scratched, or maybe you just want a color Kitchenaid doesn’t sell. Painting is a way to do this.
Why People Paint Their Mixers
- To hide marks and scratches.
- To get a custom color.
- To make an old mixer look modern.
- To match kitchen colors or style.
Things to Think About
Painting a mixer is not hard, but it takes work. It is not just spraying on paint. You need to clean it well, take it apart, sand it smooth, use the right paint, and put it back together. If you rush, the paint might not stick or look good. It might chip later. Think if you have the time and space to do it right.
Is It Hard?
For someone who likes DIY, it is a fun project. It needs patience. The hardest parts are taking it apart and getting the surface ready. Putting it back together can also be tricky. But if you follow the steps, you can do it.
Getting Ready to Paint Your Mixer
Before you paint, you need to get ready. This is a big step. If you get ready well, your paint job will look much better and last longer.
What You Will Need
Gather all your supplies first. Going back to the store stops your work.
- Safety Gear:
- Safety glasses or goggles.
- Gloves (like nitrile or latex).
- Good quality dust mask or respirator (important for sanding and spraying).
- Taking Apart:
- Screwdrivers (different sizes, often Phillips and flathead).
- Small containers to hold screws and small parts (label them!).
- Cleaning:
- Mild soap and water.
- Degreaser (like rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits) – check it won’t harm parts.
- Clean rags or microfiber cloths.
- Old toothbrush or small brush for tight spots.
- Surface Prep:
- Sandpaper sheets or sanding sponges (different grits: 220, 320, 400, 600).
- Tack cloth (sticky cloth to pick up dust).
- Painter’s tape (good quality to prevent bleeding).
- Drop cloths or old sheets to cover your workspace.
- Painting:
- Primer (etching primer for metal is best).
- Your chosen paint (spray paint is easiest for most).
- Clear coat (optional, but good for protection).
- Workspace:
- A well-aired place (outside is great, or a garage with the door open).
- Good light.
- A way to hang the mixer body while painting (a hook or wire).
Picking Your Workspace
You need a place that is clean, dry, and has fresh air. Painting indoors without good air flow is not safe. Paint fumes are bad to breathe. Dust is also a big enemy of a smooth paint job. A garage, a shed, or even outside on a nice day works well. Make sure it is not too windy if outside, as wind blows dust and makes spray paint hard to control. Cover everything you do not want paint on.
Safety First
Always wear your safety glasses to protect your eyes from dust or paint spray. Wear gloves to keep paint and grease off your skin. When sanding or spraying paint, wear a dust mask or respirator. These tiny particles are bad for your lungs. Work in a place with lots of fresh air. If working inside, open doors and windows and use fans to move air.
Taking Your Mixer Apart
You cannot paint the mixer all in one piece. You need to take off parts you do not want painted. This includes the shiny band, the logo, knobs, feet, and sometimes the internal motor cover if you want to paint the whole body. Taking pictures as you go can help you remember how to put it back together.
Steps for Taking Apart
- Unplug It: Make sure the mixer is not plugged in. This is very important.
- Remove Easy Parts: Take off the bowl, beaters, and front attachment hub cover.
- Take Off Trim Band: The shiny band around the head usually has screws hidden under it. Or it might be held on by clips. Look closely. You might need a thin, flat tool to gently pry it if it is clipped. Be careful not to bend or scratch it if you plan to reuse it.
- Remove Logo: The Kitchenaid logo is often stuck on with glue or has small pins. You might need to gently pry this off too. Heat from a hairdryer can sometimes soften the glue. Work slowly.
- Take Off Knobs and Levers: The speed control knob and head lock lever need to come off. These might have set screws or just pull off. Check for small screws first. Put these parts and their screws in a labeled bag or container.
- Separate Head and Body (If Needed): Some people take the mixer apart more to paint the neck and arm better. This involves taking screws out from the bottom and inside. This step is harder and needs more care. If you are not comfortable, you can tape off areas instead. For a first-time paint job, maybe skip taking it completely apart like this.
- Remove Feet: The rubber feet on the bottom usually pull or twist off.
- Take Off Motor Cover/Internal Pieces (Optional): Depending on the mixer model and how much you want to paint, you might need to take off more covers. Again, take pictures and keep screws organized.
Table: Common Parts to Remove
| Part | How It Might Attach | Where to Store |
|---|---|---|
| Trim Band | Screws under band or clips | Labeled bag/container |
| Logo | Glue or pins | Labeled bag/container |
| Speed Knob | Set screw or pull-off | Labeled bag/container |
| Head Lock Lever | Screws | Labeled bag/container |
| Rubber Feet | Pull off or twist | Labeled bag/container |
| Internal Covers | Screws (various sizes) | Labeled container (sort!) |
Keep all screws and small parts safe. Labeling containers is very helpful for putting it back together.
Cleaning the Mixer Body
After taking it apart, clean the main metal body well. Any grease, food bits, or dirt left on the surface will stop the paint from sticking.
Steps for Cleaning
- Wash with Soap: Use warm water and mild dish soap. Wash the outside and inside surfaces you plan to paint. Use an old toothbrush for tight spots where dirt hides.
- Rinse Well: Make sure all soap is gone. Soap left behind can cause paint problems.
- Degrease: Wipe down all surfaces with a degreaser like rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. This removes any oil or grease the soap missed. Let it dry completely. Check hidden spots like under the arm or inside curves.
Make sure the mixer body is bone dry before moving on. Water trapped in seams can cause rust or paint issues later.
Getting the Surface Ready: Sanding
Sanding is a very important step. It does two things:
1. It smooths out any small bumps or scratches on the old surface.
2. It gives the new paint something to grab onto. Paint does not stick well to a super smooth, shiny surface. Sanding Kitchenaid mixer body creates tiny scratches that the primer and paint can grip.
Why You Must Sand
Even if your mixer looks okay, sanding helps the new paint stick much better. This stops it from chipping or peeling off later. If the old paint is in bad shape (flaking, deep scratches), you might need to sand more to get a smooth start.
Choosing the Right Sandpaper
You will need different grits of sandpaper. Grit is how rough the sandpaper is. Lower numbers are rougher (they take off more material). Higher numbers are smoother (they make the surface very smooth).
- 220 grit: Good for sanding off old paint if it is peeling or very rough. Also good for the first pass to create ‘tooth’ for the primer.
- 320 grit: Used after 220 grit to make the surface smoother. Removes the scratches left by the rougher paper.
- 400 grit: Makes the surface even smoother. Good before applying primer.
- 600+ grit (optional): Can be used after primer or between coats of paint/clear coat for a very smooth finish before the next layer.
Sanding the Body
- Start with 220 or 320 Grit: If the old paint is okay, start with 320 grit. If it’s bad, start with 220. Sand the whole metal body. You do not need to remove all the old paint, just scuff up the shiny surface and smooth out any major flaws.
- Use Even Strokes: Sand in gentle, back-and-forth or circular motions. Do not press too hard in one spot. You want the whole surface to look dull, not shiny.
- Get into Curves: Sanding sponges or flexible sandpaper work well for the curves and rounded parts of the mixer.
- Move to Finer Grits: After you have gone over the whole body with the first grit, move to 400 grit. This makes the surface smoother and prepares it for primer.
- Clean the Dust: Sanding makes a lot of dust. Use a brush or air compressor (carefully) to remove most of it. Then, wipe the whole body down with a tack cloth. This sticky cloth picks up fine dust particles that you cannot see. Make sure there is no dust left!
Sanding takes time and patience. Do not rush this step. A smooth start means a smooth finish.
Putting on the Primer
Primer is a special paint layer that goes on before your color. It helps the paint stick even better to the sanded surface. It also helps the final color look brighter and more even, especially if you are changing from a dark color to a light one.
Why Use Primer?
- Helps paint stick (promotes adhesion).
- Covers up the old color.
- Provides an even base for the new color.
- Adds a layer of protection against rust (etching primer).
Choosing Primer
For metal like the Kitchenaid body, an “etching primer” or “self-etching primer” is best. It has chemicals that bite into the metal slightly, creating a very strong bond. If using regular primer, make sure it is for metal.
Applying Primer
Spray primer is usually easiest.
- Read the Can: Follow the instructions on the primer can for shaking and spray distance.
- Hang the Body: Hang the mixer body from a hook or wire so you can easily get to all sides without touching it.
- Spray Thin Coats: Apply a light, even coat of primer. Do not try to cover everything on the first try. Spray too thick and it will run and drip.
- Overlap Sprays: Start spraying off the mixer body, move across it, and stop spraying off the other side. Overlap each pass slightly.
- Let it Dry: Wait the time told on the can before adding another coat. Usually 10-15 minutes for spray primer.
- Add More Coats: Apply 2-3 thin coats of primer until the body is evenly covered.
- Light Sanding (Optional but Recommended): Once the primer is fully dry (check the can, might be several hours), you can very lightly sand it with 600+ grit sandpaper. This smooths out any tiny bumps in the primer. Clean off the dust with a tack cloth again.
A smooth primer layer is key to a smooth paint layer.
Putting on the New Color: Painting
Now for the fun part – adding color! Choosing the Best paint for Kitchenaid mixer is important for a good finish.
Types of Paint
- Appliance Epoxy Spray Paint: This is a great choice. It is made for metal appliances, is very durable, and dries hard. It comes in spray cans.
- Automotive Spray Paint: Also very durable and comes in many colors. It’s designed to stand up to wear and tear.
- Other Spray Paints (like Rust-Oleum or Krylon): Many general-purpose metal spray paints can work, but check if they are durable enough for an appliance that gets used. Enamel paints are usually good. Avoid cheap paints.
Make sure the paint you choose is made for metal surfaces.
Applying the Paint
Spray paint gives the smoothest finish for most DIYers.
- Read the Can: Again, read the instructions! Shaking time, spray distance, and drying times are important.
- Ensure Proper Ventilation: Make sure your workspace still has good air flow. Wear your respirator.
- Hang the Body: Keep the mixer body hanging.
- Spray Thin Coats: This is the most important rule for spray painting: SPRAY THIN COATS. It is better to do many thin coats than one thick one. Thick coats will run and drip.
- Spray Evenly: Use smooth, steady strokes. Overlap each spray pass by about half.
- Let it Dry: Let each coat dry partly before adding the next. The can will tell you how long (often 10-20 minutes). This is called the ‘recoat window’. If you miss this window, you might have to wait much longer for it to fully dry before adding the next coat.
- Add More Coats: Apply 3-5 thin coats of your color paint. Spray from different angles to get into all the curves and corners. Keep spraying until the color looks solid and even everywhere.
- Check for Runs: Watch for drips or runs as you spray. If you see one, stop spraying that area and let it dry slightly. You might be able to sand it out later after the paint is dry.
Painting Kitchenaid mixer steps are all about thin layers and patience. Do not touch the paint while it is wet!
Protecting Your Work: Clear Coat
Adding a Clear coat for painted mixer is a very good idea. It is a clear layer of paint that goes over your color. It protects the color layer from scratches, chips, and UV light (which can fade colors). It also gives the mixer a nice finish, either glossy or matte, depending on the clear coat you choose.
Why Use Clear Coat?
- Adds durability and protects the color.
- Makes the finish more resistant to cleaning products.
- Provides a uniform shine or matte look.
Types of Clear Coat
Look for a clear coat that is also made for metal or cars/appliances. Appliance epoxy clear coat or automotive clear coat sprays are good. Choose between gloss, satin, or matte finish based on the look you want.
Applying Clear Coat
Apply clear coat just like you applied the color paint and primer.
- Ensure Paint is Dry: Make sure your color paint is fully dry first. Check the paint can for how long to wait before clear coating (it might be hours or even a day).
- Read the Can: Follow the clear coat can instructions.
- Hang the Body: Keep the mixer body hanging.
- Spray Thin Coats: Apply 2-3 thin, even coats of clear coat. Just like the color, thin coats are key to avoid runs and get a smooth finish.
- Let it Dry Between Coats: Follow the recoat time on the can.
- Full Curing Time: This is the longest wait. The clear coat will feel dry to the touch relatively fast, but it takes much longer to fully harden or ‘cure’. This can take several days, or even a week or two, depending on the product and humidity. Wait the recommended full cure time before handling the mixer much or putting it back together. This ensures the clear coat is hard and will protect the paint properly.
Be patient during the curing time. Do not be tempted to reassemble too soon!
Painting Kitchenaid Mixer Plastic Parts
What about the plastic parts like the attachment hub cover or the speed control knob? You can paint these too, but plastic needs different prep and paint.
Why Plastic is Different
Plastic is flexible and does not hold paint the same way metal does. Regular paint might chip or peel off plastic easily.
Prep for Plastic
- Clean Well: Wash with soap and water, then wipe with rubbing alcohol.
- Light Sanding: Lightly scuff the plastic surface with very fine sandpaper (like 400 or 600 grit). This gives the paint something to stick to. Do not sand too hard – you do not want to deform the plastic.
- Plastic Primer: Use a primer made specifically for plastic. This helps the paint stick. Apply thin coats as with metal primer.
Choosing and Applying Paint for Plastic
Use a paint that is designed for plastic or is flexible. Some spray paints say they bond to plastic. Appliance epoxy or automotive paints might work, but check if they are suitable for plastic. There are also spray paints specifically for plastics (like Krylon Fusion).
Apply the paint and clear coat (if using) in thin layers, just like on the metal body. Let each coat dry well. Allow full cure time before handling.
Putting It All Back Together
Once all the painted parts are fully cured (this might take a week or more depending on the paint/clear coat), you can put the mixer back together. This is where those pictures you took and labeled containers help a lot.
Steps for Reassembly
- Start with the Body: Place the mixer body on your clean workspace (on a soft cloth to protect the new paint).
- Reattach Internal Parts: If you removed internal covers, put them back in place and secure them with their screws.
- Put Feet Back: Push or twist the rubber feet back into their spots on the bottom.
- Reattach Head/Body (If Separated): If you separated the main arm from the base, put it back together carefully. Make sure wires are not pinched.
- Attach Knobs and Levers: Put the speed control knob and head lock lever back on. Use the right screws.
- Put Logo Back: The logo can be put back with its pins (if any) or secured with a strong glue like E6000 or double-sided adhesive designed for emblems.
- Reattach Trim Band: Put the shiny band back. Line up screw holes or clips. Do not overtighten screws if it has them, as you could crack the paint.
- Put Easy Parts Back: Put the front attachment hub cover, beater shaft, bowl pin back if you removed them.
- Final Check: Look over the mixer. Make sure everything is tight but not too tight. Check that the speed control moves correctly and the head locks properly.
Be gentle when reassembling to avoid scratching your new paint job.
Another Way: Powder Coating Kitchenaid Mixer
Painting with spray cans is a DIY method. Another option, especially for Kitchenaid mixer restoration or for a very durable finish, is Powder coating Kitchenaid mixer.
What is Powder Coating?
Powder coating is a process where dry powder paint is put onto the metal mixer body. The mixer body is given an electric charge, and the powder particles stick to it because of static electricity. Then, the body is heated in a special oven. The heat melts the powder into a smooth, strong coating.
Powder Coating vs. Painting
| Feature | Spray Painting (DIY) | Powder Coating (Pro or Advanced DIY) |
|---|---|---|
| Durability | Good, but can chip over time | Excellent, very hard and resistant |
| Finish | Can be very smooth with practice | Usually very smooth and even |
| Cost | Relatively low for materials | Higher (needs special tools/service) |
| DIY Ease | Doable for most DIYers | Requires special equipment or service |
| Color Range | Wide range of spray cans | Very wide range, including effects |
| Fumes | Yes, requires ventilation | Minimal fumes after curing |
| Plastic Parts | Needs different process/paint | Only works on metal parts |
Powder coating gives a finish that is often tougher and smoother than spray paint. But it is not something most people can do at home easily because it needs special equipment (a powder gun and a large oven that can fit the mixer body). You usually need to take your mixer body to a shop that does powder coating. It costs more than buying spray paint.
If you want the most durable finish possible and do not mind paying more or sending your mixer out, powder coating is a great choice for Kitchenaid mixer restoration. If you prefer a hands-on, less expensive project, DIY painting is best.
Keeping Your Painted Mixer Looking Good
After all your hard work doing the DIY Kitchenaid mixer repaint, you want to keep it looking great.
Cleaning
- Use a soft cloth or sponge and mild soap and water.
- Wipe gently.
- Do not use harsh chemicals or abrasive scrubbers, as these can scratch or dull the paint and clear coat.
- Clean spills quickly, especially acidic foods.
Avoiding Damage
- Be careful when attaching or removing bowls and attachments so you do not hit the painted surface.
- Do not rest heavy or sharp objects on the mixer head or body.
When You Might Need a Touch-Up
Even with a clear coat, paint can sometimes get a small chip or scratch. If this happens, you might be able to touch it up.
1. Clean the area well.
2. Lightly sand the edges of the chip with very fine sandpaper (600+ grit).
3. Clean dust with a tack cloth.
4. Apply a tiny bit of matching paint with a small brush (like an artist’s brush or touch-up brush).
5. Let it dry and apply a second thin coat if needed.
6. Once the paint is dry, you can try a tiny drop of clear coat over it.
7. Let it cure fully.
Sometimes a full DIY Kitchenaid mixer repaint might be needed years down the road if the paint gets very worn or damaged.
Troubleshooting Painting Issues
Sometimes things do not go perfectly when painting. Here are a few common problems and what might cause them.
- Runs or Drips: Paint was applied too thick in one area, or the coat was too heavy.
- Fix: Let the paint dry completely. You can often sand down runs with fine grit sandpaper (like 400 or 600) and then reapply a thin coat of paint over the area. For clear coat runs, sand with very fine paper (1000+ grit) and polish after curing.
- Orange Peel Texture: The surface looks bumpy, like an orange peel. Can happen if paint is too thick, not enough overlap between passes, or if spraying too far away.
- Fix: Let the paint dry and cure. You can try wet-sanding the surface with very fine paper (600+ grit or higher) and then polishing. Or, sand the whole layer smooth and repaint with thinner, more even coats.
- Fisheyes: Small craters in the paint. Often caused by silicone or oil contamination on the surface before painting.
- Fix: This is hard to fix without restarting. You might need to sand back to bare metal or primer, clean very thoroughly with a degreaser (like Wax & Grease Remover from an auto store), prime, and repaint.
- Paint Peeling: Paint did not stick well. This happens if the surface was not cleaned properly (grease left) or not sanded enough (paint had nothing to grab onto).
- Fix: You will likely need to sand off all the new paint from the affected area (or the whole mixer) and start over, paying extra attention to cleaning and sanding before priming.
Taking your time and doing the prep steps right is the best way to avoid these problems.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does the painted finish last?
If prepped and painted well with good quality paint and clear coat, a painted finish can last many years. Its lifespan depends on how well the prep was done, the quality of the paint, and how the mixer is used and cleaned.
Can I paint any Kitchenaid mixer model?
Yes, the process works for most metal Kitchenaid stand mixer models (Artisan, Classic, Professional, etc.). The steps for taking them apart might differ slightly between models. Older models might have different materials or parts.
Do I need to take the motor out?
No, you do not usually need to take the motor out just to paint the outside body. You can protect the openings with tape. Taking the motor apart is complex and not needed for painting the shell.
What kind of primer is best?
For the metal body, an etching primer or self-etching primer made for metal is recommended because it creates a strong bond. For plastic parts, use a primer specifically made for plastic.
How long does the whole process take?
It takes several days to a week or even longer. Taking apart, cleaning, and sanding might take a few hours. Painting involves applying multiple coats of primer, color, and clear coat, with drying time between each coat (hours). The full cure time for the clear coat is the longest part, often taking 5-14 days before the finish is hard enough for reassembly and use.
Painting your Kitchenaid mixer is a rewarding project. With care and patience, you can give your mixer a completely new look and extend its life as a centerpiece in your kitchen.