How To Lighten Dark Cabinets In Kitchen: Step-by-Step DIY

Can you make dark kitchen cabinets lighter? Yes! This is a popular way to update your kitchen without a full gut job. Making your dark cabinets lighter, most often by painting them, can totally change the look and feel of your kitchen. It makes the space feel bigger, brighter, and more open. This guide will walk you through how to do a DIY cabinet painting project to get that light, airy kitchen look. It takes work, but the result is a great kitchen cabinet makeover.

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Why Go From Dark to Light?

Dark cabinets can make a kitchen feel heavy. They can make the space seem smaller than it is. Choosing light cabinet colors is a popular kitchen renovation idea. Light colors bounce light around the room. This makes your kitchen feel much brighter. White kitchen cabinets or gray kitchen cabinets are very popular choices for this reason. A kitchen cabinet makeover using light paint can give your home a fresh, modern feel. It’s a big change for less money than buying new cabinets.

Getting Ready For Your Project

Doing a DIY cabinet painting project needs planning. You need to pick your color and paint. You also need to get all your tools ready. Good prep work is the secret to a good finish. Skipping steps here will lead to problems later.

Picking Your New Color

Think about the color you want. Most people pick white kitchen cabinets. They are classic and bright. Other light cabinet colors include light gray, cream, or a pale blue or green. Gray kitchen cabinets offer a modern, calm look. Test paint colors in your kitchen light before you decide. Paint a small sample on a piece of wood or a hidden part of a cabinet. Look at it in the morning and at night.

Choosing the Best Cabinet Paint

Picking the right paint is key for painting kitchen cabinets. Not all paints work well on cabinets. Cabinets get a lot of use. They need a tough finish.

• Alkyd or Oil-Based Paints: These paints are very durable. They give a hard, smooth finish. But they smell strong and take longer to dry. Clean up needs mineral spirits.
• Water-Based Acrylic-Alkyd Hybrids: These are often called “cabinet paints.” They offer the easy cleanup of water-based paint. They dry faster than oil. They still give a hard finish like oil paint. Many DIYers like these.
• Lacquers: These give a very smooth, factory-like finish. But they need special spray equipment. They also need good airflow because of fumes. DIYers often skip this type.

You will also need a good primer. Primer helps the new paint stick to the old finish. It also helps block stains. It is very important when going from dark to light. A good primer helps the light color cover the dark color in fewer coats. Look for primers meant for cabinets or wood. Some primers are made to block stains or strong colors.

What You Need: Tools and Supplies

Get everything together before you start. Stopping to run to the store breaks your flow.

• Screwdriver: To take off doors and hardware.
• Labels or Tape and Pen: To mark where each door and drawer front goes. This makes putting them back easy.
• Plastic Bags: To put screws and hardware in for each door/drawer. Label the bags!
• Drop Cloths or Plastic Sheeting: To protect floors and counters.
• Painter’s Tape: To protect walls, appliances, and the inside of cabinet boxes.
• Cleaner/Degreaser: To get grease and dirt off cabinets. TSP (trisodium phosphate) substitute is good. Simple green works too.
• Sanding Sponge or Fine-Grit Sandpaper (220 grit): For light sanding.
• Tack Cloths or Microfiber Cloths: To wipe away dust after sanding.
• Good Quality Primer: Choose one made for cabinets or wood, possibly stain-blocking.
• Your Chosen Cabinet Paint: Enough for 2-3 coats.
• Paint Stir Stick: To mix paint well.
• Paint Can Opener: Simple tool, but you need it.
• High-Quality Paint Brushes: An angled brush is good for edges and details.
• Small Foam Rollers or Microfiber Rollers: These give a smoother finish on flat areas. Get a few roller covers.
• Paint Trays: For rolling paint.
• Paint Cup or Small Can: For brush painting.
• Work Area Setup: Sawhorses, plastic sheeting, or a protected flat surface to lay doors on.
• Personal Safety Gear: Gloves, mask (especially for sanding and oil paint), safety glasses.
• Optional: Fine-grit sandpaper (320 or 400 grit) for sanding between paint coats.
• New Cabinet hardware update: If you plan to change knobs or pulls. This is a great time for a cabinet hardware update.

Step-by-Step: The DIY Process

This is where the work happens. Take your time. Follow these steps carefully.

Step 1: Empty Your Cabinets

Take everything out of your cabinets and drawers. Find a safe place to store it all during the project. A dining room or garage works.

Step 2: Take Off Doors and Hardware

This is very important for a smooth finish. You cannot paint cabinets well with the doors on.

• Open each cabinet door.
• Use your screwdriver to take off the hinges holding the door to the cabinet frame. Keep the hinges!
• Take off the door.
• Remove the knobs or pulls from the door front.
• Crucial: Label everything. Use tape on the back of the door. Write a number or letter on the tape (e.g., “Upper Left 1”, “UL1”). Write the same number or letter on a piece of tape inside the cabinet frame where that door goes.
• Put the screws, hinges, and hardware for that door into a small plastic bag. Write the matching number or letter on the bag. Do this for every door and drawer front. This makes putting things back much easier.
• Repeat for all doors and drawer fronts.

Step 3: Clean Everything Very Well

This is the most important step for good paint sticking. Kitchen cabinets get covered in grease and grime over time. New paint will not stick to dirt or grease.

• Mix your cleaner/degreaser according to the product instructions.
• Wipe down all the cabinet doors, drawer fronts, and the cabinet frames that are still on the wall.
• Pay extra attention to areas near the stove or often touched. These spots have the most grease.
• Use a scrub brush on tough spots if needed.
• Rinse the cabinets completely with clean water. Use a damp cloth and wipe down everything again.
• Let everything dry completely. Make sure there is no greasy feel anywhere. Run your hand over the surface. If it feels sticky or slick, clean it again.

Step 4: Sand Lightly

You don’t need to sand down to the bare wood. You just need to rough up the surface a little. This helps the primer stick better. It also smooths out any small bumps or rough spots.

• Use a fine-grit sanding sponge or 220-grit sandpaper.
• Gently rub down all surfaces you will paint: doors, drawer fronts, and cabinet frames.
• Go in the direction of the wood grain if possible.
• Don’t sand too hard, especially on veneer or engineered wood. You just want to dull the shine of the old finish.
• After sanding, wipe away all the dust. Use a dry cloth first. Then use a tack cloth. Tack cloths are slightly sticky and pick up fine dust. Make sure all dust is gone. Dust will show in your paint finish.

Step 5: Apply Primer

Primer is essential when going from dark to light. It helps the light paint cover the dark color. It also helps the paint stick well.

• Set up your painting area. Lay out your doors and drawer fronts on sawhorses or a protected surface. Make sure you can access all edges. You will paint one side at a time.
• Stir your primer well.
• Use your brush for edges, corners, and any detailed areas.
• Use a small foam or microfiber roller for the flat parts of the doors, drawer fronts, and cabinet frames. Roll on a thin, even coat. Avoid putting it on too thick, as this can cause drips.
• Make sure you get the edges of the doors and drawer fronts.
• Let the primer dry completely. Check the primer can for drying times. Drying times can change based on how warm or humid it is. It’s often best to wait longer than the can says, maybe 24 hours, before sanding or painting over it.
• Once dry, lightly sand the primed surfaces with very fine sandpaper (like 320 or 400 grit). This makes the surface extra smooth for the paint.
• Wipe away all sanding dust with a tack cloth.

Step 6: Paint Your First Coat

Now for the color! This is where you start seeing the change. Remember to apply thin, even coats.

• Stir your paint well. Don’t shake the can; this can create bubbles.
• Start painting the back sides of the doors and drawer fronts first. If you make mistakes or drips, they will be less visible on the back.
• Use your brush for edges and details. Use your roller for flat areas.
• Paint in the direction of the wood grain. For rolling, overlap your passes slightly. Finish with light, even strokes.
• Paint the cabinet frames on the wall using the same method. Use painter’s tape to protect areas you don’t want to get paint on.
• Don’t try to get perfect coverage with the first coat. Especially when going from dark to light, the first coat will look patchy. This is normal.
• Let the first coat dry completely. Again, check the paint can, but allow plenty of drying time.

Step 7: Apply More Paint Coats

You will need at least two coats of paint, maybe three, to fully cover dark cabinets with a light color.

• Once the first coat is dry, lightly sand again with very fine sandpaper (320 or 400 grit). This smooths out any brush strokes or minor bumps. It also helps the next coat stick better.
• Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth.
• Apply the second coat of paint using the same method as the first. Brush edges, roll flat areas.
• Look for thin spots or areas where the dark color still shows through.
• Let the second coat dry completely.
• If the dark color still shows or the coverage is uneven, you might need a third coat. Repeat the light sanding, dusting, and painting process.
• Always let each coat dry fully before the next step. Rushing the drying time can ruin the finish.

Step 8: Add a Protective Top Coat (Recommended)

A top coat is like a clear shield for your paint. It makes the finish much more durable. It protects against scratches, chips, and daily wear. This is very important for kitchen cabinets.

• Once your final paint coat is completely dry (give it at least 24 hours, maybe more), you can apply a top coat.
• Water-based polycrylic is a popular choice for painted cabinets. It dries clear and doesn’t yellow light colors like polyurethane can.
• Stir the top coat gently. Avoid creating bubbles.
• Apply thin, even coats using a clean brush or foam roller.
• Work in sections. Don’t overwork the product, or it can get streaky.
• Apply to doors, drawer fronts, and cabinet frames.
• Let the first coat dry completely. Check the can for drying times.
• Lightly sand with very fine sandpaper (400 grit or higher) or a fine sanding pad designed for top coats.
• Wipe away dust.
• Apply a second coat of top coat. Two coats offer good protection. More might be needed in heavy-use areas or for extra durability.
• Let the final top coat dry completely.

Step 9: Let Everything Cure

Drying time is how long the paint feels dry to the touch. Curing time is how long it takes for the paint and top coat to reach their full hardness and durability. This takes much longer than drying time.

• Cabinet paint and top coats can take several days, even weeks, to fully cure.
• Wait as long as you possibly can before putting the doors back on. At least 3-5 days is good. Longer is better if you can manage it. Putting doors back too soon can lead to scratches or dents in the soft finish.
• Be gentle with the cabinets for the first few weeks. The finish is still hardening.

Step 10: Put Cabinets Back Together

This is the final step! Your kitchen is almost ready.

• Use the labels you made in Step 2. Find the bag of hardware for each door and drawer front.
• Attach the knobs or pulls back onto the doors/drawer fronts. If you are doing a cabinet hardware update, install your new hardware now. Make sure the new pulls or knobs line up correctly. You might need to drill new holes if the size or placement is different. This is a common part of a kitchen cabinet makeover.
• Find the hinges for each door. Attach the hinges back onto the doors.
• Match the door/drawer front label to the cabinet frame label.
• Hold the door up to the cabinet frame. Screw the hinges back into the frame.
• Repeat for all doors and drawer fronts.
• Drawer fronts often attach from the inside of the drawer box. You might need to use the original screws to reattach them.
• Once everything is back on, check that doors close properly and are straight. You can often adjust hinges slightly with a screwdriver to make doors line up better.

Beyond Painting: Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets

The main way to make dark cabinets light DIY is painting. Refinishing kitchen cabinets usually means stripping the old finish and applying a new stain or clear coat. If your cabinets are dark wood, refinishing might mean sanding them down completely. Then you could apply a very light stain or just a clear coat if the natural wood underneath is light.

However, most dark factory finishes are hard to strip completely without heavy chemicals or power tools. Getting a perfectly even light stain over stripped dark wood can be tricky DIY. Painting is generally easier and more reliable for a drastic color change from dark to light. So, while refinishing is a term, for lightening dark cabinets, painting is the typical DIY method.

Keeping Your Light Cabinets Clean

Light cabinet colors, especially white kitchen cabinets, will show dirt more easily than dark ones. Clean them regularly.

• Use a soft cloth and mild soap and water. Dish soap works well.
• Wipe spills quickly. Acids like lemon juice or vinegar can damage paint if left on too long.
• Avoid harsh cleaners or scrubbing pads that can scratch the paint or top coat.

What If Things Go Wrong?

• Drips or Sags: You put the paint on too thick. Carefully sand the drip flat once dry. Prime the spot lightly if needed. Repaint the area feathering the edges. Use thinner coats next time.
• Brush Strokes: You might be using the wrong brush, the paint is too thick, or you are overworking the paint. Use a good quality brush. Thin the paint slightly if the product allows (check the can). Finish with light strokes. Rolling flat areas helps avoid brush strokes.
• Paint Peeling: This is usually a prep problem. The cabinets were not cleaned well enough, or you skipped priming. The new paint couldn’t stick to the old surface. You will need to sand off the peeling paint, clean the area very well, prime, and repaint.
• Coverage Issues: The dark color is showing through. This means you need more coats of paint. Or your primer wasn’t strong enough to block the color. Make sure you are using a good primer designed for covering dark colors.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does it take to paint kitchen cabinets?

Painting kitchen cabinets is not a quick job. It takes several days. You need time for cleaning, sanding, priming, multiple paint coats, and drying/curing between each step. Expect it to take at least 3-7 days, possibly longer if you allow full cure time before putting doors back.

Can I paint cabinets without taking the doors off?

You can, but it’s not recommended for the best finish. Painting with doors on makes it hard to get paint evenly on all surfaces and edges. You will likely get drips or missed spots. Taking the doors off gives a much smoother, professional-looking finish.

Do I have to sand the cabinets before painting?

Yes, you should sand lightly. You don’t need to remove all the old finish. Just scuffing the surface helps the primer and paint stick better. It also smooths out any small flaws. Skipping this step can lead to paint peeling later.

How important is priming when painting dark cabinets light?

Priming is very important. Especially when going from dark to light. Primer helps block the dark color from showing through. It also helps the light paint stick well. Using the right primer means you will need fewer coats of your expensive paint.

How much paint do I need for kitchen cabinets?

The amount depends on the size of your kitchen. It also depends on the paint’s hiding power and how many coats you use. For an average-sized kitchen, one gallon of good cabinet paint is often enough for two coats. A quart or two of primer is usually sufficient. It’s better to buy a little extra than run out mid-project.

Can I use a brush or roller, or do I need a sprayer?

DIYers usually use brushes and rollers. High-quality angled brushes are good for details and edges. Small foam or microfiber rollers give a smoother finish on flat areas than brushes alone. Sprayers give the smoothest finish but are more expensive. They also need more setup (taping off everything!) and practice to use well. You can get excellent results with just brushes and rollers.

What is the best type of paint finish for kitchen cabinets?

A satin or semi-gloss finish is best for cabinets. These finishes are durable and easy to clean. They have a slight shine that reflects light, which is good for light cabinet colors. A matte finish is harder to clean and less durable for cabinets.

Your Brighter Kitchen Awaits

Lightening dark cabinets is a big job. But it is very doable for a DIYer. It takes careful steps, especially cleaning and priming. Choosing good paint and allowing plenty of drying time are key. A cabinet hardware update at the end makes the kitchen cabinet makeover look complete. Taking your dark cabinets to light cabinet colors like white kitchen cabinets or gray kitchen cabinets is a popular and rewarding kitchen renovation idea. You can create a much brighter, more welcoming space with your own hands. Good luck with your DIY cabinet painting project!