Get Pro Finish: How To Spray Kitchen Cupboards Yourself

Okay, ready to give your kitchen a fresh new look by spraying the cabinets yourself? Let’s dive into the process.

So, can you spray kitchen cupboards yourself? Yes, you absolutely can! With careful work and the right steps, you can get a smooth, factory-like finish. It takes time and effort, but many people find it a rewarding DIY project. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to spray your kitchen cabinets and get a great result. You can give your old kitchen a totally new feel. It’s a big job, but getting a smooth finish cabinets makes it worth it.

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Getting Started: Why Spraying Works

Painting kitchen cabinets can change your whole kitchen. You can brush or roll paint on, but spraying gives a much smoother look. It puts paint on in a fine mist. This avoids brush marks and roller texture. Spraying helps you get that sleek, modern feel. A professional painter often sprays for the best look. You can learn to do it too.

Why Spraying Gives a Smooth Finish

Spraying uses air pressure to push tiny paint drops onto the surface. This makes the paint lay down evenly. It fills small bumps better than a brush. The result is often a very smooth finish cabinets look, like they just came from the factory. This is hard to get with just a brush and roller.

Grasping the Work Ahead: Is DIY Spraying Right for You?

Spraying cabinets is a big project. It needs space and patience. You need to take everything apart. You must clean things very well. Sanding cabinets is part of the job. You will set up a spray area. This area needs good air flow. You will use a paint sprayer for cabinets. Learning to use the sprayer takes some practice.

Think about these things:

• Time: It will take several days, maybe a week. This includes drying time.
• Space: You need room to take cabinets apart. You need space to clean and sand. You need a place to spray where things can dry.
• Tools: You will need some special tools. A paint sprayer is one.
• Patience: Each step needs care. Rushing can lead to problems.

If you have the time and space, doing it yourself saves money. It gives you control over the color. You can feel proud of the new look.

Gathering Your Gear: What You Need

Having the right tools and materials ready is key. This stops you from stopping halfway through. Here is a list of common things you will need for prepping kitchen cabinets and spraying:

Tools

• Screwdriver set (for hinges and handles)
• Power drill/driver (makes things faster)
• Orbital sander (much faster than hand sanding)
• Sanding blocks or sponges
• Putty knife
• Caulk gun (if filling gaps)
• Cleaning rags
• Buckets
• Drop cloths or plastic sheeting (lots of it!)
• Masking tape (good quality, like painter’s tape)
• Dust masks or respirators
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
• Paint sprayer for cabinets (more on this later)
• Stir sticks
• Paint can opener

Materials

• Cleaning solution (like TSP – Trisodium Phosphate, or a good degreaser)
• Wood filler or spackle
• Fine-grit sandpaper (like 150, 220, 320 grit)
• Primer for cabinets
• Cabinet paint (Choose the best paint for kitchen cabinets)
• Mineral spirits or paint thinner (check paint instructions)
• Tack cloths
• Caulk (if needed)
• Small containers for screws and hardware (label these!)
• Masking paper or plastic film (for covering large areas)

Setting Up Your Spray Area

You need a place to spray. This area must be clean. It should have good air flow. A garage is a good spot. A basement can work. You need to cover everything you do not want paint on. This is important for masking kitchen cabinets.

• Hang plastic sheeting on walls and ceilings.
• Cover the floor completely with drop cloths or plastic.
• Set up stands or saw horses to hold cabinet doors and drawers. You will spray both sides. You need to let them dry without touching anything. Cone stands or drying racks are helpful.
• Make sure there is good light. You need to see where the paint is going.
• Set up a fan to pull air out or bring fresh air in. This helps with fumes and drying. Make sure the fan does not blow dust onto wet paint.

The Crucial Prep Work: Cleaning and Repairing

Good prep work is maybe the most important part. It makes the paint stick well. It helps you get that smooth finish. Skipping steps here means a bad paint job later. This is the core of prepping kitchen cabinets.

Taking Things Apart

1. Empty Cabinets: Take everything out of the cabinets and drawers.
2. Remove Doors and Drawer Fronts: Use your screwdriver or drill. It is smart to number each door and drawer. Write the number where the hinges attach (it will be painted over). Write the same number inside the cabinet frame opening. This helps you put them back in the right spot later.
3. Remove Hardware: Take off hinges, handles, knobs. Put the screws and hardware for each door or drawer into separate small bags or containers. Label these clearly with the matching door/drawer number. This saves a lot of headache later.
4. Remove Shelves: Take out any shelves inside the cabinets.

Cleaning, Cleaning, Cleaning

Kitchen cabinets get grease and grime. Paint will not stick to grease. You must clean them very, very well.

1. Mix Cleaning Solution: Use a strong degreaser or TSP mixed with water. Follow the product directions.
2. Wash Everything: Wash all the cabinet boxes, doors, and drawer fronts. Use a cloth or sponge. Scrub hard on greasy spots. Pay attention to areas around handles and hinges.
3. Rinse Well: Rinse with clean water and a clean rag. You must get all the cleaner off. Leftover cleaner can stop paint from sticking.
4. Let Dry: Let everything dry completely. Use a fan if needed. Make sure no moisture is left.

Making Surfaces Smooth: Sanding and Filling

After cleaning, look closely at all surfaces. Fill any holes or dents. Sanding cabinets smooths them out and helps paint stick.

1. Fill Holes and Dents: Use wood filler for holes or deep dents. Use spackle for small nicks. Push it in with a putty knife. Make it level with the surface.
2. Let Filler Dry: Let the filler dry completely. Check the product for drying times.
3. First Sanding: Use medium-grit sandpaper (like 150-grit or 180-grit) on an orbital sander for flat areas. Sanding cabinets helps remove old finish bumps. It makes the surface ready for primer. Sand in the direction of the wood grain if sanding wood. Lightly sand all surfaces. This scuffs the old finish so the primer grips better. Hand sand corners and detailed areas.
4. Sand Filler: Once the filler is dry, sand it smooth and flat with the surrounding wood. Start with a slightly coarser grit if needed, then move to a finer grit.
5. Clean Dust: This is important! Sanding makes a lot of dust. Vacuum all surfaces. Use a brush attachment to get into corners. Then, wipe everything down with a damp cloth (damp, not wet). Let it dry. Finally, use tack cloths. These sticky cloths pick up fine dust. Go over every surface you will paint. Dust is the enemy of a smooth finish.

Final Prep: Masking the Kitchen

While the doors and drawers are separate, you still need to paint the cabinet frames (the boxes attached to the wall). You need to protect everything you do not want paint on. This is masking kitchen cabinets.

1. Cover Countertops: Lay drop cloths or plastic sheeting over your countertops. Tape the edges down well.
2. Protect Appliances: Cover your fridge, stove, dishwasher, etc., with plastic sheeting. Tape it firmly in place.
3. Mask Inside Cabinets: If you are not painting the inside, mask the inside edges of the cabinet frames. Use painter’s tape and paper or plastic film. Be precise near the opening.
4. Mask Walls and Floors: Tape paper or plastic along the walls around the cabinets. Cover the floor under the cabinets completely.
5. Mask Hinges (If Keeping Old Ones): If you are reusing hinges and not painting them, cover them completely with tape. It’s often easier to replace old hinges or use new ones though.

Spending extra time on prep work saves you hours of fixing mistakes later. It is the secret to getting a pro finish.

Selecting Your Paint and Primer: The Right Stuff

Choosing the right products is vital for kitchen cabinets. They need to be tough. They need to stand up to cleaning, bumps, and kitchen life.

Primer First: Why You Need It

Do you need primer for cabinets? Yes! Primer makes the paint stick much better. It blocks stains and old colors from showing through. It gives the new paint a smooth, even base.

• Stain-Blocking Primers: These are good if your cabinets have knots, stains, or are made of oak (which can bleed tannins).
• Bonding Primers: These are made to stick to slick surfaces, like old varnish or laminate.
• Shellac-Based Primers: Very good at blocking stains and odors. They dry fast.
• Water-Based (Acrylic) Primers: Easier cleanup. Good for most prepped surfaces.
• Oil-Based Primers: Very durable, good stain blocking. Need mineral spirits to clean up.

For kitchen cabinets, a high-quality bonding primer or stain-blocking primer is often the best choice. Ask your paint store for advice if you are unsure. Make sure the primer works with the type of cabinet paint you choose.

Choosing the Best Paint for Kitchen Cabinets

Not all paints are good for cabinets. You need a paint that is durable, washable, and levels well (becomes smooth as it dries). This is the cabinet paint you need.

• Acrylic Enamels (Water-Based): These are popular. They dry hard. They are durable. They clean up with water. Many new versions level very well to give a smooth finish.
• Alkyd Enamels (Oil-Based): Very tough and durable. Level very well for a super smooth finish. But they have strong fumes. They dry slower. Cleanup needs mineral spirits. They can yellow over time, especially white colors.
• Hybrid Paints (Alkyd/Acrylic): These try to give the benefits of both. They offer good durability and leveling. Cleanup is often easier than oil-based.

Look for paints specifically made for cabinets or trim. These are designed to be harder and smoother than regular wall paint. The finish sheen matters too. Satin or Semi-Gloss are common choices for cabinets. They are easier to clean than flat paint. Semi-Gloss is the most durable and easiest to wipe clean.

How Much Paint?

It is better to buy a little extra paint than to run out. A gallon of good cabinet paint usually covers quite a bit. Check the coverage rate on the can. Remember you will likely do 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of paint.

Deciphering Your Sprayer: Choosing the Right One

A paint sprayer is key to a smooth finish cabinets look. There are different types. For cabinets, an HVLP sprayer is often the best choice for DIYers.

Types of Paint Sprayers

• Airless Sprayers: These use high pressure to push paint through a small tip. They are fast. They are good for large areas like walls. They create a lot of overspray (paint mist floating in the air). They can be harder to control for fine finish work like cabinets.
• HVLP Sprayers (High Volume Low Pressure): These use a large volume of air at low pressure. This atomizes the paint into fine particles. It results in a smoother finish. It creates less overspray than airless sprayers. This gives you more control. This makes them great for cabinets and furniture. This is the recommended paint sprayer for cabinets for fine finish work.

Why HVLP is Preferred for Cabinets

An HVLP sprayer lets you control the paint flow and air pressure more finely. This helps you lay down thin, even coats. Thin coats build up to a smooth finish. Less overspray means less waste and less mess. It makes masking easier. Look for an HVLP sprayer made for furniture or fine finish work. Some models are all-in-one units. Others connect to an air compressor.

Practicing with Your Sprayer

Before spraying your cabinets, practice!

1. Read the Manual: Learn how your specific HVLP sprayer works.
2. Thinning Paint: You may need to thin your primer and paint. HVLP sprayers work best with thinner liquids than airless sprayers or brushes. Check the paint can or paint maker’s website for thinning instructions. Use the right thinner (water for acrylic, mineral spirits for oil). Use a funnel with a paint filter to put paint into the sprayer cup. This catches lumps.
3. Test Spray: Use a piece of cardboard or scrap wood. Adjust the spray pattern (fan shape), air pressure, and paint flow. Practice moving the sprayer evenly. You want a wet, even coat without drips or runs. Practice overlapping your passes by about 50%.

Getting the settings right on your paint sprayer for cabinets takes a few tries. Do this before you spray your actual cabinet pieces.

The Spraying Process: Laying Down the Coats

Now for the fun part! Make sure your spray area is clean and dust-free. Wear your respirator and safety glasses.

Step 1: Apply Primer

1. Set Up Pieces: Arrange your doors, drawer fronts, and shelves on your drying stands or cones. Leave space between them.
2. Load Sprayer: Load your thinned primer into the HVLP sprayer cup. Use a filter funnel.
3. Spray Primer: Start spraying an edge first. Then spray the main flat surface. Hold the sprayer about 6-8 inches from the surface. Move smoothly and evenly. Overlap each pass by about 50%. Keep the sprayer moving while you are spraying. Do not stop the sprayer while it is pointed at the surface. This causes drips.
4. Spray One Side: Spray one side of all the pieces. Let them dry according to the primer instructions.
5. Flip and Spray Other Side: Once dry enough to handle, flip the pieces over. Spray the other side.
6. Spray Cabinet Boxes: Spray the cabinet frames attached to the wall. Start with the inside edges, then the front frame. Spray consistently.

Primer coats do not need to be perfect. Their job is to stick to the old surface and give the paint something to stick to. They also help cover old colors. You will likely need two coats of primer for good coverage and bonding. Let the first coat dry well before applying the second.

Step 2: Sanding Between Coats

After the primer is fully dry (check the can for time), you need to sand again. This smooths out any slight bumps or texture from the primer. It also helps the paint stick better.

1. Light Sanding: Use fine-grit sandpaper (like 220-grit or 320-grit). Hand sand gently or use your orbital sander on a very low setting with light pressure. You are just smoothing, not removing the primer. Sanding cabinets between coats makes a big difference for a smooth finish.
2. Clean Dust (Again!): Vacuum and use tack cloths again. Dust is the enemy of a smooth paint finish. Make sure all dust is gone before painting.

Step 3: Applying Cabinet Paint

This is where you build your final color and durability.

1. Load Sprayer: Load your thinned cabinet paint into the HVLP sprayer. Use a filter funnel.
2. Spray First Coat: Spray the paint just like you sprayed the primer. Spray edges first, then the main surfaces. Keep the sprayer moving evenly. Aim for a thin, wet coat. Avoid spraying too thick, which causes runs. It is better to spray two thin coats than one thick one.
3. Spray One Side: Spray one side of all doors, drawers, and shelves.
4. Spray Cabinet Boxes: Spray the cabinet frames.
5. Let Dry: Let the first coat dry according to the paint can instructions. This drying time is very important. Check for the “recoat window.” Spraying too soon or too late can cause problems.
6. Sanding (Optional but Recommended): Some people do a very light sanding with extra fine paper (like 320 or 400 grit) between paint coats after the paint is dry. This is just to smooth any tiny imperfections. Clean dust thoroughly afterwards.
7. Spray Second Coat (and maybe third): Apply a second coat of paint following the same steps. Most cabinet paints need at least two coats for good color and durability. Dark colors over light primer might need three coats.

Move slowly and check your work often for drips or areas you missed. If you get a drip, stop spraying that piece. Let the drip dry completely (this might take hours). Then you will need to sand the drip smooth and respray that area or the whole piece. This is why thin coats are better!

The Waiting Game: Drying and Curing

Spraying kitchen cabinets drying time is different from curing time. Both are important.

• Drying Time: This is how long until the paint feels dry to the touch. It is also how long until you can apply the next coat (recoat time). This can be from 1 hour to 4+ hours, depending on the paint type, temperature, and humidity.
• Handling Dry: This is when you can safely move the pieces without leaving fingerprints or damaging the paint. This takes longer than touch dry.
• Curing Time: This is how long it takes for the paint to reach its maximum hardness and durability. The paint is still soft and easily damaged until it cures. Curing time can take several days or even weeks! For cabinet paint, full cure often takes 7 to 30 days.

Table: Typical Drying & Curing Times (Check Your Paint Can!)

Stage	Water-Based (Acrylic)	Oil-Based (Alkyd)	Hybrid Paints	Notes
Touch Dry	1-4 hours	6-24 hours	2-6 hours	Can you touch it without it feeling wet?
Recoat Time	2-4 hours	24+ hours	4-24 hours	When can you spray the next coat?
Handle Dry	6-24 hours	24-48 hours	8-24 hours	When can you safely move the pieces?
Light Use	1-3 days	3-7 days	2-5 days	Be gentle! Still scratching easily.
Full Cure	7-30 days	30+ days	7-30 days	Max hardness reached. Avoid harsh cleaning.

Times can vary greatly based on temperature, humidity, and how thick the paint was applied.

Let your doors and drawers dry completely before you try to handle them or put them back. Waiting longer is always better than rushing. Stack pieces carefully with soft foam or cloth in between if you need to.

Putting It Back Together: Reassembly

Once the paint is dry enough to handle (check your paint’s spec sheet), you can start putting your kitchen back together. Be careful! The paint is not fully cured yet.

1. Attach Hardware: Put the hinges back on the doors. Attach knobs and pulls. Use the small bags you labeled! This is where labeling pays off big time.
2. Hang Doors and Install Drawers: Carefully hang the doors back onto the cabinet frames. Install the drawer fronts back onto the drawer boxes. You might need to adjust the hinges to make the doors hang straight and close properly.
3. Install Shelves: Put the shelves back inside the cabinets.
4. Cleanup: Remove all the masking tape and plastic. Clean up any dust or overspray.

Be gentle with your cabinets for the first few weeks. Avoid hitting them hard. Clean spills gently with a soft cloth and mild soap. Do not use harsh cleaners until the paint is fully cured.

Tips for a Pro-Level Finish

• Prep is Paramount: I know I said it before, but it is worth saying again. Cleaning, sanding cabinets, and masking kitchen cabinets perfectly are more than half the job.
• Thin Coats: Spraying thin coats gives a smoother finish and reduces drips and runs. Build up the color slowly.
• Consistent Motion: Keep the sprayer moving at a steady speed. Keep it the same distance from the surface. Overlap your passes correctly.
• Proper Ventilation: Spraying creates fumes and paint mist. Work in a well-aired area. Use a good respirator.
• Temperature and Humidity: Paint dries best in a certain temperature and humidity range. Check the paint can. Avoid spraying in cold, hot, or very humid conditions if possible.
• Practice Makes Perfect: Spend time practicing with your paint sprayer for cabinets before you start on your actual kitchen.

Cost vs. Professional Sprayers

Doing it yourself is cheaper than hiring someone. You save on labor costs. You buy the materials and maybe rent or buy a sprayer.

Hiring a pro costs more, but they have high-end equipment and lots of experience. They can often get a perfect factory finish.

DIY spraying is a middle ground. You can get a very good finish if you are careful and follow all the steps. It is better than brushing for a smooth look. It costs less than hiring a pro.

Maintenance for Your Sprayed Cabinets

To keep your newly sprayed cabinets looking good:

• Clean spills quickly.
• Use a soft cloth and mild soap and water for cleaning.
• Avoid abrasive cleaners or scrub pads.
• Do not hang wet towels over doors for long periods.
• Use cabinet door stoppers if needed to prevent doors from hitting the wall.

Conclusion: Your New Kitchen Awaits

Spraying your kitchen cupboards yourself is a big but rewarding project. It takes careful prepping kitchen cabinets, choosing the right primer for cabinets and best paint for kitchen cabinets, using a suitable paint sprayer for cabinets like an HVLP sprayer, precise masking kitchen cabinets, patient sanding cabinets, and waiting for the correct spraying kitchen cabinets drying time.

By following these steps, paying attention to detail, and not rushing the process, you can achieve a beautiful, durable, smooth finish cabinets look that will update your kitchen for years to come. It is a challenge, but seeing the transformation and knowing you did it yourself is a great feeling.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it take to spray kitchen cabinets?

A: It typically takes 3-5 days from start to finish, including taking things apart, cleaning, sanding, priming (multiple coats), painting (multiple coats), and initial drying time before reassembly. Full curing takes longer.

Q: Do I have to remove the cabinets from the wall?

A: No, you only need to remove the doors, drawer fronts, and hardware. The cabinet boxes (the frames attached to the wall) are prepped and sprayed in place.

Q: What type of paint is best for kitchen cabinets?

A: Durable enamel paints, like acrylic enamels, alkyd enamels, or hybrid paints, are generally considered the best paint for kitchen cabinets. Look for products labeled for cabinets or trim that offer good hardness and washability.

Q: Can I use regular wall paint?

A: It is not recommended. Regular wall paint is not designed to be as hard or durable as cabinet paint. It will be more likely to scratch, chip, or show stains over time compared to a dedicated cabinet paint.

Q: How do I avoid drips and runs?

A: Practice with your sprayer first. Thin your paint properly. Hold the sprayer the correct distance from the surface. Keep the sprayer moving smoothly and evenly. Apply thin coats instead of one thick coat.

Q: How long before I can use my kitchen normally?

A: You can usually reassemble and lightly use your kitchen after 24-48 hours after the final coat of paint is applied (check paint instructions). However, the paint needs 7-30 days to fully cure and reach maximum durability. Be extra careful during this curing time.

Q: What if I mess up a spray coat?

A: If you get drips or runs, do not try to fix them while the paint is wet (unless it is a very minor spot you can quickly dab with a clean brush tip). Let the paint dry completely. Then, sand the problem area smooth and respray the piece or area carefully.

Q: Is sanding really necessary?

A: Yes, sanding cabinets is very important, even if they were already painted. It smooths out imperfections and creates a surface texture that helps the primer and paint stick better. Light sanding between coats also helps achieve a smoother final finish.