Achieve Pro Look: How To Finish Kitchen Cabinets DIY Guide

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Giving your kitchen cabinets a new look is a big job. But you can do it yourself. You can make old cabinets look fresh and new. This guide shows you how. You can paint kitchen cabinets or stain kitchen cabinets. Both ways can give you a refinish kitchen cabinets look that seems like a pro did it. We will walk through the cabinet painting process and staining steps. You will learn how to apply cabinet finish the right way. We will also talk about the best cabinet paint and how to get cabinets ready. Proper steps help you seal kitchen cabinets for a durable cabinet finish. Getting ready means prepping kitchen cabinets well and sanding cabinets smoothly.

Kitchen cabinets get old. They can look worn. The finish might chip or fade. Replacing cabinets costs a lot. It is a big expense. But you can give them a new life. You can change how they look. A new finish makes the whole kitchen feel new. It costs less money than buying new cabinets. It takes time and effort. But many people do this project themselves. They get great results. It is a good way to save money. It also lets you pick the exact color or stain you want.

How To Finish Kitchen Cabinets
Image Source: vevano.com

Why Update Your Cabinets?

Cabinets take up a lot of space in your kitchen. They are a big part of how the room looks. Old cabinets can make the kitchen feel tired. A fresh color or stain brightens things up. It makes the space feel clean. It can match a new style you want. Maybe you want a modern look. Or maybe you like a cozy, classic feel. Updating the cabinets helps you get the look you want. It also protects the wood. A good finish keeps moisture out. It stops damage. It helps cabinets last longer.

Picking Your New Look: Paint or Stain?

You need to decide this first. Do you want to paint or stain? Both options have good points. They also have things to think about.

Choosing to Paint

Painting gives you lots of color choices. You can go bold. You can go light. White or gray paint is very popular now. It makes kitchens look bigger and brighter. Paint covers the wood grain. If your cabinets are not solid wood, paint is often the better choice. If the wood has marks or looks uneven, paint hides these things.

  • Good things about paint:
    • Endless color options.
    • Covers imperfections well.
    • Good for cabinets that are not real wood.
    • Can create a modern look.
  • Things to think about with paint:
    • Shows dirt more easily if light colored.
    • Can chip if not done well.
    • Needs careful prep for a smooth finish.

Choosing to Stain

Staining lets the wood grain show. If you have nice wood cabinets, staining is a great way to show off that wood. Stain colors can go from light browns to dark reds. Stains sink into the wood. They do not sit on top like paint. Staining gives a warm, natural look. It is often more forgiving than paint if you make small mistakes during putting it on.

  • Good things about stain:
    • Highlights natural wood beauty.
    • Many wood tone colors.
    • Often looks more natural than paint.
    • Can be easier to apply evenly than paint.
  • Things to think about with stain:
    • Limited by the color of the wood you start with.
    • Does not hide wood flaws.
    • Needs wood to be in good shape.

Deciding between paint and stain depends on your cabinets now and the look you want. Think about the wood type and the condition it is in.

Getting Ready is Key: Prep Kitchen Cabinets

Good prep makes a big difference. It is maybe the most important step. If you skip prep steps, your new finish will not stick well. It might peel or chip fast. Taking time here saves problems later. This is where you prep kitchen cabinets.

Step 1: Empty Everything

Take everything out of your cabinets and drawers. Store it away from your work area.

Step 2: Take Doors and Hardware Off

This is a must. Trying to paint or stain cabinets with doors on is hard. You miss spots. You get drips. It is much easier to work on flat surfaces.

  • Label each door and drawer. Use tape and numbers. Write where it goes (like “Upper Left 1”). This helps you put them back in the right spot later. Cabinets might look the same, but they hang a certain way.
  • Take off all hinges, knobs, and pulls. Put hardware in bags. Label the bags by door or drawer number. This stops you from losing small screws.

Step 3: Clean Everything Really Well

Kitchen cabinets get greasy. They get sticky. You must clean off all dirt, grease, and grime. New paint or stain will not stick to dirty surfaces.

  • Use a strong degreaser. A mix ofTSP (Trisodium Phosphate) substitute and water works well. Or use a good cabinet cleaner from the store.
  • Scrub every part: doors, drawer fronts, cabinet boxes. Get into corners.
  • Rinse with clean water. Use a damp cloth. Wipe away all the cleaner.
  • Let everything dry completely. Water left behind can cause problems.

Step 4: Fix Any Damage

Look closely at the cabinets. Do you see dents, holes, or scratches? Now is the time to fix them.

  • Use wood filler for holes and deep dents. Wood filler comes in a tub. You press it into the hole.
  • Let the filler dry hard. Drying time depends on the product and how deep the hole is. Read the label.
  • Sand the dried filler smooth. Use medium-grit sandpaper first (like 120-grit). Then use fine-grit (like 220-grit). You want it level with the wood around it.

Step 5: Sanding Cabinets Smooth

Sanding cabinets is very important. It helps the new finish stick. It also makes the surface smooth. The type of sanding depends on if you are painting or staining.

  • For Painting: You need to rough up the old finish. This gives the primer something to grab onto. You do not need to sand down to bare wood unless the old finish is peeling badly. Use 150-grit or 180-grit sandpaper. Sand all surfaces lightly. Just scuff up the surface.
  • For Staining: You usually need to sand down to bare wood. Stain needs to soak into the wood fibers. It will not color an old finish evenly. Start with a rougher grit (like 80 or 100) to take off the old finish. Move to medium (120, 150). Finish with fine (180, 220). Sand in the direction of the wood grain. Sanding against the grain makes scratches you will see later.

Sanding Tips:

  • Use a sanding block for flat surfaces.
  • Use sandpaper folded or on a sponge for curves.
  • An orbital sander can speed things up for flat doors. But be careful not to sand too much in one spot.
  • Always wear a dust mask! Sanding makes lots of fine dust.
  • Wear safety glasses.

Step 6: Get Rid of Dust

Sanding creates a lot of dust. Dust is the enemy of a smooth finish. You must get every bit of it off.

  • Use a vacuum with a brush tool. Vacuum all surfaces, edges, and corners. Get dust off the floor, walls, and everything nearby.
  • Wipe surfaces with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a sticky cloth that picks up fine dust. Wipe lightly. Do not press hard, or it leaves sticky stuff.
  • You can also use a cloth slightly damp with mineral spirits (for stain) or water (for paint prep, after cleaning). Let it dry fully.

Your cabinets are now prepped! They are clean, fixed, sanded, and dust-free. You are ready for the fun part: adding the new color.

Adding the New Look: Apply Cabinet Finish

Now it is time to apply cabinet finish. The steps are different if you are painting or staining.

Path 1: The Cabinet Painting Process

Painting cabinets takes layers. You need primer first, then paint, then a top coat. This gives you a strong, smooth, durable cabinet finish.

Step 1: Prime Everything

Primer is like a base coat. It helps the paint stick to the cabinet surface. It also blocks stains and helps give a uniform color, especially if you are painting a light color over a dark one.

  • Choose the right primer:
    • If your cabinets were stained or had a clear coat, use a shellac-based or oil-based primer. These block stains from bleeding through your paint. They also stick well to slick surfaces.
    • If your cabinets were painted and the paint is not peeling, a good quality water-based (acrylic) bonding primer can work.
    • Always read the paint and primer labels. Make sure they work together.
  • Apply a thin, even coat of primer:
    • You can use a brush, roller, or sprayer.
    • Use a good quality brush (like an angled sash brush for corners) and a small foam roller or short-nap roller for flat parts. Foam rollers give a smoother finish with fewer roller marks.
    • If using a sprayer, practice first. Spraying gives the smoothest finish but takes practice and setup.
    • Do not put it on too thick! Thick primer takes longer to dry and can sag or drip.
  • Let the primer dry completely. Check the product label for drying times. It might feel dry fast, but it needs more time to fully cure.

Step 2: Light Sanding After Primer (Optional but Good)

After the primer is dry, lightly sand cabinets again. Use very fine sandpaper (like 280-grit or 320-grit). This smooths out any brush strokes or roller marks from the primer. It also helps the paint stick better. Wipe off all dust with a tack cloth after sanding.

Step 3: Apply the First Coat of Paint

Now for the color! Choose a high-quality paint made for cabinets or trim. This paint is harder and more durable than wall paint. This is where the best cabinet paint comes in. Look for paints that say “enamel” or “urethane enhanced”. These paints dry hard and are less likely to chip.

  • Types of Best Cabinet Paint:
    • Alkyd (Oil-based) Enamel: Very durable finish. Levels well (brush strokes disappear). Takes longer to dry. Smelly. Clean up with mineral spirits.
    • Acrylic Latex Enamel: Water-based. Easier cleanup. Dries faster. Less smell. Modern acrylics are very durable. Some have urethane added for extra hardness.
    • Hybrid Alkyd/Acrylic: Water-based but acts like oil-based. Good durability and leveling. Easy cleanup. A good choice.
  • Apply a thin, even coat:
    • Use the same method as primer (brush, roller, sprayer).
    • Work in sections. Do doors and drawer fronts first. Then do the cabinet boxes.
    • Avoid drips! Check edges and corners as you go. Smooth them out quickly.
  • Let this coat dry completely. Again, follow the can’s directions. Do not rush this step! Drying times can be several hours.

Step 4: Apply Second (And Maybe Third) Coat

Most cabinets need at least two coats of paint for full color and durability.

  • Before the second coat, light sanding cabinets again (320-grit or 400-grit) can make the finish even smoother. This is optional, but pros often do it. Clean dust off again.
  • Apply the second coat thinly and evenly, just like the first.
  • Let it dry fully. If you still see through the paint, or want a deeper color, apply a third coat.

Step 5: Seal Kitchen Cabinets (Top Coat)

Adding a clear top coat helps seal kitchen cabinets. It adds extra durable cabinet finish. For painted cabinets, this is often not needed if you use a very durable paint like a urethane-enhanced enamel. But for extra protection, especially on high-use areas, a clear coat is a good idea.

  • Use a non-yellowing clear coat. Water-based polycrylic is a good choice for painted surfaces (it stays clear). Oil-based polyurethane can yellow over time, especially on white paint.
  • Apply one or two thin coats.
  • Let dry fully between coats.
  • A light sand (very fine, 400-grit+) between top coats makes it smoother. Clean dust off.

This completes the cabinet painting process.

Path 2: How to Stain Kitchen Cabinets

Staining is different from painting. You color the wood itself, then protect it.

Step 1: Condition the Wood (Maybe)

Some woods, like pine or maple, can be blotchy when stained. Wood conditioner helps the stain go on more evenly.

  • If you have softwood or maple, apply a pre-stain wood conditioner.
  • Follow the product directions. You usually apply it, let it sit for a short time, then apply stain while the conditioner is still a little wet or within a certain time frame.

Step 2: Apply the Stain

Now you apply cabinet finish with the stain color.

  • Choose a stain color you like. Test it on a hidden part of the cabinet or a piece of scrap wood of the same type. Stain color looks different on different woods.
  • Apply stain with a brush or cloth. Work in the direction of the wood grain.
  • Let the stain sit on the wood for a few minutes. The longer it sits, the darker the color will be. Test this on your scrap wood.
  • Wipe off the extra stain with a clean cloth, following the wood grain. Wipe until the surface is smooth and no wet stain is left.
  • Use a smaller brush or cloth to get stain into corners and details.
  • Let the stain dry completely. This can take 12-24 hours, or even longer in humid places. Do not rush this! If you apply a top coat too soon, the stain will not cure right, and the finish might peel or stay sticky.

Step 3: Apply More Coats of Stain (Optional)

If you want a darker color, you can apply a second coat of stain after the first coat is dry. Each coat makes the color deeper. Wipe off the extra stain each time.

Step 4: Seal Kitchen Cabinets (Top Coat)

Stain by itself is not very durable. You must seal kitchen cabinets with a clear top coat. This adds protection and a durable cabinet finish.

  • Choose a good clear coat. Polyurethane is a common choice. It is very durable. It comes in oil-based and water-based versions.
    • Oil-based poly is very tough. It has a slight amber color that gets stronger over time. This can look nice over wood stain. It takes longer to dry.
    • Water-based polycrylic (often called polyurethane) is clear and dries faster. It is less durable than oil-based poly but easier to work with and less smelly.
    • Spar urethane is extra durable and good for areas with moisture, but it is usually meant for outside things. Regular poly is fine for cabinets.
  • Apply the clear coat in thin layers. Use a good brush or sprayer. Do not apply it too thick, or it will drip and take forever to dry.
  • Let each coat dry fully. Drying time varies a lot based on the product, how thick it is, and the humidity.
  • Light sanding cabinets between clear coats (with 320-grit or 400-grit sandpaper) makes the finish smoother. It helps the next coat stick better. Clean off all dust before applying the next coat.
  • Apply at least two coats of clear finish. Three is better for more durability.

This finishes the staining process.

The Final Steps: Putting It Back

Your cabinets have their new finish! But you are not done yet.

Let Everything Cure

This is very, very important for a durable cabinet finish. Drying is when the finish feels dry to touch. Curing is when it gets hard and reaches its full strength. This can take days or even weeks, depending on the product and conditions.

  • Check the product label for cure time. It might say something like “fully cured in 7 days” or “full hardness in 30 days”.
  • Do not rush to put doors back or put things in drawers. Wait as long as you can. Putting weight or pressure on the finish before it is fully cured can cause dents, scratches, or make it peel later.
  • Be gentle with the cabinets for the first few weeks.

Reattach Hardware

Once the finish is fully cured, you can put the hardware back on. Use the labels you made to match hardware to doors and drawers. Be careful not to scratch the new finish.

Install Doors and Drawers

Now you put the cabinet doors and drawers back onto the cabinet boxes. Use your labels to get them in the right spot. This is easier with a helper. Adjust hinges if needed so doors hang straight.

Tips for a Professional Look

  • Work Clean: Keep your work area as dust-free as possible. Dust motes landing on wet finish cause bumps.
  • Good Light: Work in a well-lit area. This helps you see drips, missed spots, and unevenness as you apply the finish.
  • Take Your Time: Do not rush any step. Especially drying and curing times. Trying to speed things up usually leads to problems.
  • Practice: If you are using a sprayer or trying a new technique, practice on scrap wood or the back of a door first.
  • Thin Coats: Many thin coats are always better than one thick coat. Thin coats dry faster, level better, and are less likely to drip.
  • Read Product Labels: Every paint, stain, and top coat is different. Read the directions carefully. Pay attention to drying times, how to apply, and cleanup.

Table: Paint vs. Stain Quick Guide

Feature Paint Kitchen Cabinets Stain Kitchen Cabinets
Look Covers wood grain, wide color choice Shows wood grain, wood tone colors
Covers Flaws Yes, hides imperfections well No, shows wood flaws
Cabinet Type Good for wood, MDF, laminate Best for real wood
Prep Clean, scuff sand (often no bare wood) Clean, sand to bare wood (usually)
Process Primer, 2-3 coats paint, optional top coat Conditioner (maybe), stain, 2-3 top coats
Durability Depends on paint/top coat quality Depends on top coat quality
Shows Dirt More visible on light colors Less visible than light paint

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Not cleaning enough: Any grease or dirt will stop the new finish from sticking. Clean until the surface is squeaky clean.
  • Skipping sanding: Sanding (or scuffing for paint) gives the finish something to hold onto. It also makes the surface smooth.
  • Not removing dust: Dust stuck in the finish will look like little bumps. Clean dust off many times during the process.
  • Applying finish too thick: Thick coats drip, take forever to dry, and can peel. Always apply thin layers.
  • Not letting layers dry: Applying the next coat too soon is a common mistake. The layer underneath must be dry, and sometimes cured a bit, before the next layer goes on. This is key for a durable cabinet finish.
  • Not using primer: Primer is needed for paint to stick well, block stains, and get true color.
  • Using the wrong products: Use paint/stain/sealer made for cabinets or furniture. Wall paint is not durable enough. Make sure primers, paints, and top coats work together (e.g., oil over water-based products often does not work).
  • Rushing the cure time: This is a big one. The cabinets might feel dry, but they are soft inside. Be very careful with them for the full cure time. This is vital for a durable cabinet finish.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does this project take?

It varies a lot. For an average kitchen, taking off cabinets, cleaning, sanding, applying layers (with drying times), and putting back on can take anywhere from 3 days to 2 weeks or more. The waiting time for drying and curing is most of it.

Can I paint laminate cabinets?

Yes, you can paint laminate cabinets. But prep is extra important. You need a specialized bonding primer made for slick surfaces like laminate. Sanding lightly to rough up the surface helps too.

Do I need to sand down to bare wood if I’m painting?

Usually no, unless the old finish is in bad shape (peeling, chipping). For paint, you typically just need to clean very well and then sand enough to “scuff up” the surface so the primer can stick. This is sometimes called “deglossing”.

What is the best way to apply the finish?

Using a sprayer usually gives the smoothest, most professional finish with no brush marks. But sprayers require practice, setup, and cleanup. Using a good quality brush and a small foam roller is another great way to get a smooth finish, and it is easier for beginners.

How do I get a really smooth finish with paint?

Use high-quality paint designed to level well (like enamel). Apply thin coats. Use a good brush and a foam roller. Sand lightly between coats of primer and paint with fine grit sandpaper (320+). Clean off all dust. Consider a flow additive designed for your paint type (check the label).

What is the difference between polyurethane and polycrylic?

Both are clear protective coatings. Polyurethane is very durable and comes in oil-based (ambers, very durable) and water-based (clearer, less odor) forms. Polycrylic is a type of water-based clear coat that stays very clear and is good over light paint colors where you do not want yellowing. Polyurethane is generally considered a bit more durable than polycrylic.

How do I clean my newly finished cabinets?

Once the finish is fully cured, clean with a soft cloth and mild soap and water. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, which can damage the finish.

How long will the new finish last?

If prepped and applied correctly with quality products, a painted or stained cabinet finish can last many years, often 10-15 years or more, before needing a refresh. Proper cleaning helps keep it looking good.

Your Updated Kitchen Awaits

Updating your kitchen cabinets is a big DIY project. But it is very rewarding. It takes careful work. It takes time and patience. But if you follow the steps: prep kitchen cabinets fully, choose your finish, apply cabinet finish correctly (whether you paint kitchen cabinets or stain kitchen cabinets), sand cabinets at the right times, and seal kitchen cabinets for a durable cabinet finish, you can get results that look amazing. You will have a kitchen that feels brand new. And you did it yourself!

Remember to gather your tools. Get quality products. Set aside enough time. Ask for help if you need it for lifting doors. With good planning and effort, you can achieve a pro look and enjoy your beautiful, refreshed kitchen for years to come.

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