How To Remove A Kitchen Sink Strainer Safely & Easily

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How To Remove A Kitchen Sink Strainer Safely & Easily

Need to remove your kitchen sink strainer? Maybe it’s clogged, leaking, or you’re putting in a new sink. This guide shows you how to take it out safely and easily. We will walk you through each step, explaining the parts involved and what tools you need. By following these simple steps, you can remove the old strainer and get ready to put in a new one or fix the issue.

Why You Might Remove Your Sink Strainer

People take out a kitchen sink strainer for a few main reasons.

• It’s Leaking: The seal around the drain might be bad. Water drips under the sink. This often means the plumber’s putty or gasket under the sink is worn out.
• It’s Clogged Badly: Sometimes clogs are so deep you need to take apart the kitchen sink drain assembly to clear them. Grease and food bits build up. A blocked kitchen sink drain basket is just the start of the problem.
• It’s Damaged: The strainer itself might be broken. The metal could be cracked. Or the part that holds the kitchen sink drain basket might be bent.
• You’re Getting a New Sink or Countertop: When you replace the sink, you must remove the old drain parts. This includes the strainer.
• You Want to Upgrade: You might want a different type of strainer. Or you might be changing to a garbage disposal flange setup. Replacing sink strainer parts can make your sink look better or work better.
• Working on Under Sink Plumbing: Sometimes, to fix a problem with the pipes below, taking the strainer out from the top makes things easier.

No matter the reason, removing the strainer is a job many homeowners can do. You just need the right tools and a little know-how. Taking out the drain flange often fixes leaks or lets you clear tough clogs.

Learning the Parts of the Kitchen Sink Drain Assembly

Before you start, it helps to know what you are looking at. A kitchen sink drain assembly has several key parts. They all work together to drain water and prevent leaks.

Here are the main pieces you will find:

• The Strainer Body (or Drain Flange): This is the metal cup or ring you see from inside the sink. It sits in the sink drain hole. It might have holes or slots for water to go through. This is where the kitchen sink drain basket sits.
• Plumber’s Putty or Gasket: This creates a watertight seal between the drain flange and the sink bottom. Plumber’s putty is common, but some strainers use a rubber gasket instead. This seal is very important to stop leaks.
• Rubber Gasket: Sits below the sink. This thick rubber ring goes around the strainer body’s tailpiece. It helps seal the underside.
• Friction Washer (or Washer): A flat washer, often made of cardboard or hard plastic. It goes below the rubber gasket. It helps the locknut tighten evenly.
• Sink Drain Locknut: This is a large nut. It screws onto the strainer body from underneath the sink. It tightens everything together, squeezing the gaskets and washers to seal the drain flange against the sink. This is a key piece you will loosen for drain flange removal.
• Tailpiece: This is the straight pipe that connects to the bottom of the strainer body. The rest of your under sink plumbing connects to this. This is where you will use slip joint pliers to disconnect the P-trap.
• Kitchen Sink Drain Basket: This is the removable part you put into the strainer body to catch food scraps. It lifts out easily for cleaning. This is not part of the fixed assembly you remove, but it sits in the drain flange.

Look under your sink. Find these parts. See how the locknut holds the strainer body in place. Notice how the tailpiece connects to the rest of your under sink plumbing, like the P-trap. Understanding these parts makes the removal process clearer. Sometimes, special basket strainer tools are needed to hold the drain flange steady from above while you work below.

What Tools You Need

Gather your tools before you start. Having everything ready saves time and hassle. You likely have most of these items already.

Here is a list of the tools and materials you will need:

• Bucket: A small bucket or container. You will place this under the drain pipes to catch any water that might still be in the pipes.
• Rags or Towels: Keep these handy for wiping up spills. Also good for padding surfaces or holding hot pipes (though pipes shouldn’t be hot for this job).
• Slip Joint Pliers: These pliers have a joint that can slide. This lets the jaws open wider. They are perfect for gripping and turning the large nuts and pipes under the sink, like the sink drain locknut and pipe connections.
• Adjustable Wrench: Another good tool for turning nuts and pipe fittings. An adjustable wrench can be useful if slip joint pliers don’t fit well or for different size nuts.
• Strainer Wrench or Basket Strainer Tool: This tool is designed to fit into the crossbars of the strainer body from the top of the sink. It holds the strainer body still so it does not spin while you loosen the locknut underneath. You can often use a screwdriver handle instead if you don’t have this tool.
• Putty Knife or Scraper: To clean up the old plumber’s putty from the sink surface after you remove the strainer.
• Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes. Things can fall or splash when working under a sink.
• Flashlight or Headlamp: It can be dark under the sink. A light helps you see what you are doing.
• Gloves (Optional): Keep your hands clean. Plumbing can be messy.

Make sure your tools are in good condition. Using the right tools makes the job much easier and safer. For drain flange removal, having the right size slip joint pliers or basin wrench is key for loosening the sink drain locknut. Basket strainer tools help a lot but are not always needed if you have another way to hold the strainer still.

Putting Safety First

Working under the sink involves water and pipes. Taking a few safety steps is smart.

• Turn Off the Water (Usually Not Needed, But Possible): For removing just the strainer, you don’t usually need to turn off the main water supply to the house. However, if you feel safer, or if you are replacing the whole sink, turn off the hot and cold water supply valves under the sink or the main valve to the house.
• Wear Safety Glasses: Always wear eye protection. You are working in a tight space, often looking up. Bits of old pipe, dirt, or drips of water could fall.
• Check for Leaks Before Starting: If there’s an active leak, know where it is coming from. Be ready for water.
• Clear the Area: Take everything out from under the sink. You need space to work. This also protects stored items from drips.
• Use a Bucket: Place your bucket right under the drain pipes. It will catch water when you disconnect the under sink plumbing. There will always be some water left in the pipes.
• Be Careful with Tools: Work slowly and carefully with slip joint pliers and wrenches. Avoid banging your head on the sink or cabinet.
• Ventilation: If using penetrating oil for stuck parts, make sure the area is well-aired.
• Heavy Lifting: The strainer itself is not heavy. But if you are also dealing with the sink or other parts, lift with your legs.

Taking these simple safety steps helps prevent accidents and makes the job go smoothly.

Step-by-Step Process to Remove the Strainer

Follow these steps carefully to remove the kitchen sink drain assembly. Work slowly and patiently.

H4 Preparing the Workspace

First, get ready under the sink.

• Open the cabinet doors under the sink.
• Take out everything stored there. Put it somewhere safe.
• Place your bucket directly under the P-trap and the strainer tailpiece. This is the pipe connected to the bottom of the strainer. It dips down in a U or S shape. The bucket catches water.
• Lay down some rags or old towels in the cabinet base. They will catch smaller drips or spills.
• Put on your safety glasses.

H4 Disconnecting Under Sink Plumbing

Now, disconnect the pipes below the strainer.

• Look at the pipe connected to the bottom of the strainer. This is the tailpiece.
• It connects to other pipes, usually the P-trap. The connection is made with large nuts called slip nuts or couplings.
• Use your slip joint pliers or adjustable wrench.
• Grip the slip nut firmly.
• Turn the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. It might be stiff at first.
• Be ready for water to drain into the bucket as you loosen the nuts.
• Disconnect the tailpiece from the rest of the under sink plumbing. You might need to disconnect the P-trap from the wall drain pipe too to get enough play.
• Set the disconnected pipes aside. Let any water drain into the bucket.

This step is key for gaining access to the sink drain locknut. Using slip joint pliers correctly makes loosening these nuts much easier.

H4 Securing the Drain Flange (From Above)

The drain flange (the part you see in the sink) can spin when you try to loosen the nut below. You need to hold it still.

• Look into the sink drain. You will see the crossbars or opening at the bottom of the strainer body.
• If you have a basket strainer tool or strainer wrench, fit it into the crossbars. Have someone hold the handle of the tool from above to stop the drain flange from turning.
• No special tool? No problem. You can use a large screwdriver handle or the handles of pliers. Stick them into the crossbars. Find a way to hold the tool steady against the sink bottom or countertop edge. This stops the drain flange from spinning. Some people even use a broomstick handle across the sink opening, wedged against the tool handles.
• You need to keep the drain flange from moving while you work underneath.

This step is crucial for successful sink drain locknut removal. If the drain flange spins, you cannot loosen the nut below.

H4 Loosening the Sink Drain Locknut

This is the main nut holding the strainer in place. It is located right under the sink, around the strainer body’s tailpiece.

• Look directly under the sink drain hole. Find the large nut screwed onto the bottom of the strainer body. This is the sink drain locknut.
• Below the locknut, you will see the friction washer and the rubber gasket. The tailpiece is below these.
• Get your slip joint pliers or a basin wrench. A basin wrench is a tool with a long handle and a jaw on the end, good for tight spaces. Slip joint pliers often work fine.
• Grip the sink drain locknut firmly with your tool.
• Turn the locknut counter-clockwise. Remember, someone must be holding the drain flange steady from above.
• This nut can be very tight. It might be corroded or stuck with mineral deposits.
• Use steady pressure. If it does not budge, you might need more force. See the “Dealing with Difficult Cases” section if it is stuck.
• Once it starts to turn, keep unscrewing it by hand if possible.

Loosening the sink drain locknut is the key step in the drain flange removal process. Patience and leverage are your friends here.

H4 Removing the Washers and Gasket

Once the locknut is off, the other parts below the sink will come loose.

• Finish unscrewing the sink drain locknut and slide it down the strainer body’s tailpiece. Remove it completely.
• Slide the friction washer down and off the tailpiece. This is often a flat, rigid ring.
• Slide the rubber gasket down and off the tailpiece. This is a thicker, softer ring.
• These parts might be stuck or crumbly if they are old. Just remove them carefully.
• With these parts removed, only the strainer body itself is left in the sink hole, held by the seal from above.

You have now disconnected all the under sink plumbing and removed the hardware holding the strainer in place from below. The drain flange is now free.

H4 Lifting Out the Strainer

Now you can remove the strainer from the sink.

• Go back to the top of the sink.
• The strainer body (drain flange) is sitting in the drain hole. It is held in place by the plumber’s putty or gasket between it and the sink surface.
• You need to break this seal.
• Push up on the strainer body from underneath the sink. Or, use a flat tool like a putty knife around the edge of the strainer from above, under the lip. Gently pry it up.
• The old plumber’s putty or gasket will resist a bit. It will likely be flattened and hard.
• Lift the entire strainer assembly out of the sink drain hole.
• Set the old strainer aside.

You have completed the main drain flange removal step. The old kitchen sink drain assembly is out.

H4 Cleaning Up the Sink Drain Hole

The area around the sink drain hole needs to be clean for the new strainer or seal.

• There will be old plumber’s putty or gasket material stuck to the sink surface around the drain hole.
• Use your putty knife or scraper to remove all the old material. Scrape it clean.
• Wipe the area with a rag to get rid of smaller bits and dirt.
• Make sure the sink surface is smooth and clean where the new strainer will sit. This is important for creating a good seal later when replacing sink strainer components.

A clean surface ensures a leak-free seal for your new kitchen sink drain assembly parts.

Dealing with Tough Problems

Sometimes, parts don’t want to come loose. Here are tips for stuck parts.

H4 A Stuck Sink Drain Locknut

This is the most common problem. The locknut can get corroded or seize onto the strainer body threads.

• More Force: First, try applying more force with your slip joint pliers. Make sure you have a good grip on the locknut and the strainer is held steady above.
• Penetrating Oil: Spray a product like WD-40 or a dedicated penetrating oil onto the threads of the locknut and strainer body. Let it soak in for 15-30 minutes. This can help loosen rust or mineral buildup. Reapply and try again.
• Gentle Heat (Use Caution!): A little heat from a hairdryer or heat gun applied to the locknut can help it expand slightly. Be very careful not to overheat or damage nearby plastic pipes or the sink material. This is a last resort and needs care. Do not use a torch!
• Cutting the Locknut: If the locknut absolutely will not turn, you might need to cut it off. Use a hacksaw blade (without the hacksaw handle, just the blade itself in tight spots) or an oscillating tool with a metal cutting blade. Carefully cut through the locknut on one side. This will break the tension and allow you to twist it off. Be extremely careful not to cut the strainer body threads (if you plan to reuse it) or damage the sink bottom. Cutting is a last resort.

H4 Corroded Pipes or Tailpiece

The tailpiece or the connecting under sink plumbing might be old and corroded.

• If a pipe is heavily corroded where the slip nut connects, it might crumble when you try to loosen the nut.
• You might need to replace more of the under sink plumbing than just the strainer.
• Have some basic PVC pipe fittings and a hacksaw or pipe cutters on hand just in case.
• Sometimes, the strainer body itself is corroded where the locknut screws on. If the threads are damaged, the strainer is unusable and must be replaced.

H4 Garbage Disposal Flange

Is your sink drain connected to a garbage disposal? Removing a garbage disposal flange is different from removing a standard strainer.

• A garbage disposal flange often has different mounting hardware. It might use a large snap ring and mounting screws instead of a locknut and gaskets.
• You will need to disconnect the disposal unit first. This involves disconnecting the drain pipe, unplugging or turning off power, and twisting or unscrewing the disposal from the flange assembly.
• Removing the flange itself then requires removing the snap ring and loosening screws from the underside.
• The process is more complex. This guide focuses on standard basket strainer tools and kitchen sink drain assembly removal.
• If you have a garbage disposal, look up specific instructions for your model’s drain flange removal. It might require different basket strainer tools or special wrenches for the disposal ring.

If you run into major trouble with very stuck or corroded parts, or if you are not comfortable cutting metal, it might be time to call a plumber.

Replacing the Sink Strainer (Quick Overview)

After you remove the old strainer and clean the sink hole, you are ready to put in the new one. The process is basically the reverse of removal.

1. Prepare the New Strainer: If using plumber’s putty, roll a rope of putty about 1/2 inch thick. Place it around the underside lip of the new drain flange. Make sure it forms a complete ring. If your new strainer uses a gasket instead of putty, place the gasket in its groove on the underside of the flange.
2. Place the New Strainer: Insert the new drain flange into the clean drain hole from the top of the sink. Press down firmly to squeeze out some of the putty or seat the gasket.
3. Install Parts Below: Go under the sink. Place the new rubber gasket onto the tailpiece of the strainer body. Then add the new friction washer.
4. Install the New Sink Drain Locknut: Screw the new sink drain locknut onto the strainer body threads by hand.
5. Tighten the Locknut: Use your slip joint pliers or basin wrench to tighten the locknut. As you tighten, watch the putty or gasket from above. Excess putty will squeeze out. Do not overtighten, but make it snug. You want a good seal. You might need to hold the strainer body from above again to stop it from spinning while you tighten the locknut.
6. Reconnect Plumbing: Reconnect the tailpiece to the rest of your under sink plumbing. Hand-tighten the slip nuts, then give them a quarter to half turn with your slip joint pliers. Don’t overtighten plastic nuts.
7. Clean Up: Wipe away the excess plumber’s putty from the top of the sink with your putty knife. Clean the area with a rag.
8. Test for Leaks: Turn the water back on (if you turned it off). Fill the sink with water and let it drain. Check under the sink carefully for any drips or leaks around the new strainer and the pipe connections. Run water for a few minutes.

Replacing sink strainer parts correctly ensures your new kitchen sink drain assembly works properly. Using fresh plumber’s putty or the included gasket is vital for a leak-free drain flange installation. Make sure the sink drain locknut is tight enough to seal but not so tight it cracks parts.

Handy Tips for Success

• Take Photos: Before you start, take pictures of the under sink plumbing setup. This helps you remember how to put it back together.
• Keep Parts Organized: As you remove the locknut, washers, and gasket, keep them in order. This helps when you are replacing sink strainer parts.
• Cleanliness: Clean up the old putty right away. It gets harder to remove later.
• New Parts are Best: While you can reuse some parts, it’s best to use the new locknut, washers, and gaskets that come with a new strainer. Always use fresh plumber’s putty.
• Don’t Overtighten: Tightening nuts too much, especially plastic ones on the under sink plumbing, can cause them to crack or strip. Tighten until snug, then just a bit more.
• Check Your Work: Always test for leaks after reassembly.

Using these basket strainer tools and following the steps for drain flange removal and replacement makes the job manageable.

What If Something Goes Wrong During Removal?

Even with careful steps, issues can pop up.

• Pipe Breaks: Old plastic pipes under the sink can become brittle. If a pipe cracks when you try to loosen a nut, don’t panic. You will need to replace the broken section. This might require a trip to the hardware store for new pipe and connectors. Measure the old pipe section to get the right size.
• Strainer Spins Constantly: If you cannot get the drain flange to stay still from above, the locknut below is almost impossible to loosen. Try different tools or methods to wedge the strainer crossbars firmly. A broomstick handle across the sink can provide leverage. If all else fails, you might need to cut the locknut.
• Locknut Won’t Budge: If penetrating oil and force don’t work, cutting is the next option. Proceed with caution to avoid damaging the sink or threads you need to reuse.
• Can’t Reach the Locknut: Some sink setups or disposal units make accessing the locknut very hard. A basin wrench is designed for these tight spots. If you still can’t reach, you might need help.
• Discovering More Problems: Sometimes, removing the strainer reveals other issues with the sink or cabinet. Be prepared to deal with unexpected repairs.

Most problems are fixable with basic tools or a quick trip for parts. Knowing how the different pieces of the kitchen sink drain assembly fit together helps diagnose issues.

Keeping Your Kitchen Sink Drain Basket Clear

Once you have a working drain assembly, a little care keeps it flowing smoothly.

• Use the Basket: Always use the kitchen sink drain basket to catch food scraps. Empty it into the trash regularly.
• Avoid Grease: Don’t pour grease or oil down the drain. It hardens and causes clogs.
• Hot Water Flush: After using the sink, run hot water for a minute to help wash away any residue.
• Regular Cleaning: Clean the strainer body and the basket regularly.
• Natural Cleaners: For light clogs or smells, try pouring baking soda followed by vinegar down the drain. Let it fizz, then flush with hot water.

Taking care of your kitchen sink drain assembly helps prevent clogs and the need for frequent repairs or replacing sink strainer parts. A well-maintained drain means less hassle down the line.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

H5 How long does it take to remove a sink strainer?

For a standard kitchen sink drain assembly that isn’t heavily corroded, it usually takes about 30 minutes to an hour. If parts are stuck or you have unexpected issues, it could take longer.

H5 Can I do this without any plumbing experience?

Yes, this job is often suitable for a beginner DIYer. You need basic tools like slip joint pliers and the ability to follow step-by-step instructions. Knowing how to identify the sink drain locknut and disconnect simple under sink plumbing is key.

H5 Do I need special basket strainer tools?

A dedicated basket strainer tool or strainer wrench is helpful for holding the drain flange steady from above. However, you can often use the handles of pliers or a screwdriver wedged across the sink drain crossbars instead. They make the job easier but are not always strictly necessary for basic drain flange removal.

H5 Is plumber’s putty better than a gasket?

Both plumber’s putty and rubber gaskets create a seal. Plumber’s putty is traditional and molds to the shape of the sink and strainer opening, making a tight seal. Gaskets are cleaner to use and preferred for some modern strainers or materials sensitive to putty (like some plastics or natural stone). Always use what the new strainer recommends or what was there before. When replacing sink strainer, use fresh sealing material.

H5 What if the locknut is plastic?

Many modern kitchen sink drain assembly kits use plastic locknuts and tailpieces. Plastic is less likely to corrode than metal. However, plastic parts can crack if overtightened or if old and brittle. Be gentle with slip joint pliers on plastic nuts.

H5 I have a double sink. Is it different?

Double sinks usually have two separate drain assemblies connected to a single drain pipe system below. You will work on one strainer at a time. The under sink plumbing will be slightly more complex as it connects two drains, but the principles for removing each individual strainer remain the same.

H5 Can I reuse the old strainer?

If the old strainer is not damaged, is clean, and the leak was just a bad seal (plumber’s putty/gasket), you might be able to reuse it. However, if the metal is pitted, corroded, or the threads for the sink drain locknut are damaged, it is best to replace it. New strainers are not expensive.

H5 What is a drain flange?

The drain flange is the part of the strainer assembly that sits in the sink drain hole from the top. It’s the visible metal ring or cup where the kitchen sink drain basket rests. The process of removing the strainer assembly is often called drain flange removal.

H5 My sink has a garbage disposal. How do I remove the drain?

Removing a garbage disposal flange is different. You must disconnect the disposal unit first, usually by twisting it off or removing mounting screws and a snap ring from below. Then you can access the flange mounting ring that holds it to the sink. The hardware is different from a standard sink drain locknut setup. It’s usually best to look up instructions specific to your garbage disposal model.